Thread: My first restoration: H.Böker & Co. Perfection in Cocobolo

Hi everyone,
this is my first restoration and I would apreciate some advice or pointers. Namely how to determine the angle at which in the inside wedge should lay to halt the razor but also to be able to open. In the case of razors like these with a somewhat prone Toe, do you guys recomend another pin stop right in the thumb rest portion of the tang?

I am experimenting with polyurethane finish but I may strip that and go for a french polish schellac which is my usual go to or try the CA finish for the first time. Anyone have some good articles on using CA to finish?

The polyurethane is not curing so well. perhaps due to the Cocobolo even though I carefully removed the natural oils from the surface with isopropil alcohol. My wood is at least 40 years old so I am not sure there isnt much oil left in it as well.

I picked up this razor at a flee market, it has a small nick that should hone out without much problem but I am curious about this razor as I cant find much regarding the Boker Perfection. Its a nice full hollow ground in between 6/8 and 7/8.

I have ordered the pins from Maggard and I looking forward to shave with it.
Here are some pictures of the restoration. I am a bit of a purist/traditionalist and I try not to use sandpaper at all if possible, I like to work with these traditional hand tools. That said, I dont always stick to that since I use tape to hold the scales together and a dremel for the polishing of the blade with 0.5 Crox Bar I loaded onto a felt wheel.

Cocobolo really turns out well with a good polishing & light buffing, followed by a carnuba or Renaissance wax as it already has a lot of natural oils to it anyways. I do trial fitting on my wedges (I glue one side) gradually removing material until I get the razor to sit where I want it. The biggest mistake most new scale makers make is getting the scales too thick per side or not having the scales the same thickness. I use both a micrometer & the eye for gauging uniformity.

Thanks Shooter,
so for polishing and buffing, what do you use? steel wool? other abrasives?

do you not apply any finish at all? just buffing and wax?

I have carnuba wax for finihsing I should try it then.

Real Carnauba turns whight when subjected to water,waterspots badley

I hand sand somewhere close to 1K, then buff it on a buffer. Last set of knives I made using Bois d' Arc (sp?) for the handles I finished the handles with Mothers carnuba, rubbing in the wax like I would tongue oil until it was at that tacky stage with no more slipperiness. I set it down and did the same to 5 others. I then used an old t-shirt to hand buff the wood & repeated two more times. Turned out nicely, but never subjected them to water like pixelfixed is talking about & I trust his word. Bois d' Arc is yellow, so if there was any whitening it didn't show. Same guy ordered five more knives...

This is about the best I have found anywhere on CA finishes

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ints-tips.html

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I decided to strip the poly and I am going to use the CA. I didnt like the rubbery tacky feel that poly was giving. I also didnt like such a gloopy glossy look on what is suposed to be a nice classy razor.

In reality, coco is not a finish friendly wood.Has a very high oil content.

You are right its not an easy wood. I will say that having used some of this wood that is a few years old vs. this one which is about 40 years old, the oil content in the wood eventually diminishes so does the smell and iritating properties of the wood.

I have experience working with it as I have made musical instruments with it. I found it works great with shellac once you have wiped it down with acetone or alcohol to remove the oils. My only concern is with shellac or french polishing is that it is not so water resistant. Also, shellac doesnt do so well when its handled often since the oils from the skin eventually wear out the finish.
Is shellac used often to finish razor scales?

I will try this CA glue technique and see if I can learn a new way of finishing to my arsenal.

Not really a fan of wood scales,But if I were to make some I would CA the inside only.Than do the outsides to 800 grit,burnish well with Rottonstone and oil,heavily wax with renwax.
The natural shine will last a very long time.