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Thread: Is it better, pits or no pits?
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10-04-2013, 02:00 PM #11
I have unknowingly purchased a couple of razors with pits, oddly, both had pitting in the bevel, one a fairly large one (loupe standard) and one had several small ones. The thing about pits is, if you don't accept them, they know it and they get bigger. Pretty soon all you have in your hand is a pit and the razor has been lost to time. Forgot to mention: I really should not be here...these were restorations that I purchased.
Last edited by WW243; 10-04-2013 at 04:21 PM.
"Call me Ishmael"
CUTS LANE WOOL HAIR LIKE A Saus-AGE!
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10-04-2013, 03:34 PM #12
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Couple of things I have learned from doing a couple of restores:
You do not decide where the razor ends up when it comes to restoration, the razor does..
Restoration is a balancing act.
Murphy's Law of Razors = The pits will inevitably be deeper then the stamps
The worst restores come from an inexperienced eye buying the razor, not from the hands doing the restoration
Shopping wisely, makes restorations much easier
Metal polish and a Rag is not a restore, that is general cleaning
The more razors you take apart, the more you realize what can live between the scales, and the more restoration you do
The condition of a Vintage razor is much more important then the name on the tang
Patina, is Not Black, and is a word that gets way to much usage
These are just some things to ponder..Last edited by gssixgun; 10-04-2013 at 03:37 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
cudarunner (10-07-2013)
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10-04-2013, 03:43 PM #13
I would be even more skeptical of the highly polished restos because they are likely machine sanding/polishing to get that finish. Which IMHO is more likely to create a crack or damage the temper.
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10-04-2013, 03:54 PM #14
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10-04-2013, 04:03 PM #15
I forgot to add, unless you trust it to a restoration expert like gssixgun And I have had the pleasure of using a restored 8/8 Wostenholm wedge by you. A fine looking shaver and a fine shave.
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10-04-2013, 04:11 PM #16
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I just don't want to discourage people from trying, but really it comes down to picking the right razor to restore when you first start out, start simple and easy and build up to the harder stuff..
Every single restorer here that I know started with sandpaper in one hand and a rusted razor in the other and slowly learned the tricks that it takes.. Now I do agree that anyone rushing into this hobby whether it be shaving, honing, or restore, is likely to have not so good results
In the end though they are your razors and your faces, so it is in your hands..
Myself I started restoring razors because I refuse to use Rusty, Dirty, Pitted, steel on my Hollywood face, so it was either buy new or learn to clean them up... I did both
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10-07-2013, 06:00 PM #17
I give pitted razors a quick cleanup and hone, then sell to people who want to try straight shaving on the cheap. Unless it's something really rare, it just isn't worth the work.
One time, in band camp, I shaved with a Gold Dollar razor.
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10-08-2013, 06:44 AM #18
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10-08-2013, 10:24 AM #19
Glen that razor is fantastic and what I aspire to in my restorations.
While I agree with what everyone has been saying I would just add that if you can get a pitted old piece of crap for cheap, say $10 or so, it can be a great learning tool. Better to learn and mess up something that was borderline useful anyway to begin with, than to take a fine old blade and destroy it while learning.
"You can learn something from anyone. Sometimes it is what not to do."
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10-14-2013, 09:26 PM #20
You have some very nice work there so good sir could i ask for your help then as to how i can get the pits out of this one? The ones i am talking about sit right up under the spine. Should i try or just leave it at the point i have got it to?