Thread: Is it better, pits or no pits?

Here is an opinion take it for what it worth...

If I get a sense that there is going to be left over pitting of stains or marks I always back the finish down to a Satin, personally I am not that fond of Near Mirror and will shoot for a perfect Satin Glow anyway but that is just me.. A nice Satin will help to hide any imperfections rather then bring them right to the front like when they are on a Near Mirror...

Note that I said Near Mirror as very very very few Vintage razors can hold onto a perfect mirror finish, they have had too much "life" in the past...

Just a thought and it is easy to see what it will look like start at 600 and you can bring the grit up until the marks become obvious then stop

Ok i hear what you are saying and i agree that satin is better for hiding the hard life a razor may have seen and getting a mirror is not always worth the effort. what grit are you taking it to for the satin finish and do you think the one i posted would be better off that way? How do i finish under that spine edge?

Kinda hard to tell from the pic but it looks like some marks there by the front..

Are you handsanding ????

Nice work, I’d leave it as is, the blade goes well with the scales.

What are those scales, very nice?

As far as getting up into that spine area, you need to have sandpaper attached or wrapped around something of similar shape.
I would get one of those old Erasers we used to use in elementary school, you know, those pink ones, and shape the nose of one end to match the curve you are trying to get into. Then fold a piece of SP over the edge and go at it.

The following is NOT recommended if you have never used a power tool on a blade. This can be a very dangerous thing to do:
For a more radical approach, tape piece of SP around a small dowel and put the dowel in a variable speed drill. Mount the drill to a workbench( I use a simple clamp)
Turn at a slow speed, and being VERY CAREFUL, work that area.
DO NOT let the metal heat up.
DO NOT let the dowel get near the cutting edge.
Always make sure rotation of the dowel is going from the SPINE TO THE EDGE.

Anyhow, I would try the eraser first.

I love pitting in my razors! Cheaper to buy, minimal cleaning required (aesthetically), and they shave just as well as a polished blade!

No i am not hand sanding, I use a buffer and compound. The scales are jade and black layered G10 that have been hand pitted all around. I will try the hand drill idea if i cant get it by hand but may just leave this one alone for now

“The scales are jade and black layered G10 that have been hand pitted all around.”

Did you use hand tools or a Dremel?

Is the process similar to Pipe Rustication? Nice Scales.

If you are using a buffer you did not cut deep enough on you first grit. Get all the pitting and discoloration you want off on you lowest geasless grit.

To completely remove it now you may have to re buff it all over.

Personally I like the look.

Thank you, i think they look nice I used a Dremel with a small round tip bit and did all the pitting after i had shaped, sanded and fitted the scales. It is very much like pipe rustication but when i am done i hit it with a buffer as a last step.
When using my buffer on this one i was worried about going to deep because the pits are deep and i didnt want to mess up the spine and change its thickness but i may go back someday on this one. How would you hold a blade to a buffer to get that spot safely? I quit using 80 grit geasless as i want a slower cut to take my time with.

Unpin and cut from toe to tang or reverse. Once the marks are cut out, buff edge down spine up. Are you using greaseless compounds?

Did you wire wheel the scales before the buffer?

Thanks