Thread: Layering scales with metall

I knew knowing how to bed rifles would come in handy some day.

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

I knew knowing how to bed rifles would come in handy some day.

Bob

Yep pretty much the same we drill the holes into the stock to create the locks then make sure nothing on the action can let one form hehehe

oh that's a mechanical lock... I tried to make some sort of mini mechanical lock by sanding and than making some x pattern lines with my "exacto" like knife... I did this mainly on the horn part, I guess it would be smart to do it on the brass part as well.

If you drill holes in a metall sleeve, and than smear the epoxy over the metal, how does this look in the final state? Do you sand down the smeared epoxy, until you reach the metal or leave some on?

That is something you are going to have to mess with and decide, if you do it at the right time it should be near invisible..

Just curious,sometimes Liners look pretty trick,other than the look,why even consider doing it.

@pixelfixed: I was trying to save the horn blanks (that were uneven and quite thin), since liners look nice on a razor I thought I might give it a try ..

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Just curious,sometimes Liners look pretty trick,other than the look,why even consider doing it.

I realise that I'm late on this thread but to in reply to the question - it was looks alone - I wanted to see how the copper looked against the black horn.

Despite some of the reservations raised in the previous threads, I found that the process works pretty well without creating a metal lock (I was unaware of that anyway!), and the scales do flex without detaching - as you can see in the link in the first post. I used a thick CA and fixed the copper and horn before the blank was cut, then halved it lengthways, cut to shape on a scroll saw and finally sanded to finished shape on a bench sander and by hand. I was creating some heat when using the bench sander so I guess if they were going to separate that's when it would have been. Before spreading the CA, I roll a round file over the metal to key it in.

Although it's not something I do on a regular basis, I've used brass, copper and nickel silver for liners in the past and, touch wood, had no problems up to now. The only time I did experience separation was when I inadvertently left the covering film on and used that side for the adhesive.