Results 11 to 20 of 20
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10-12-2013, 02:28 AM #11
DON'T USE IT !!!! YOU'LL BE SORRY !!!!!! Wear a face shield if you must...hate to see you in the cut of the day thread with a piece of blade in your eye....
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Hirlau (10-13-2013)
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10-12-2013, 02:34 AM #12
Always do Sir. Safety first.
http://straightrazorplace.com/workshop/18504-welcome-workshop-how-do-i-where-do-i-what-do-i-answers-here.html
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10-12-2013, 03:42 AM #13
I've done plenty of restorations with a Dremel, even sanded right thru a blade once.
I don't use one now as there are better ways for me. YMMV.
If you want to go to the trouble & outlay a grinder & greaseless compounds are hard to beat.The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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10-12-2013, 04:15 AM #14
Do you mean a bench grinder or a hand held?
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10-12-2013, 04:17 AM #15
Check out my restore of a wostenholm for a member thread where use acork as a drum sander.
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10-12-2013, 06:48 AM #16The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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10-12-2013, 09:33 AM #17
Firstly, there is no 'rule' against using a dremel. It's more of a guideline
And especially if you have arthritis in your hands, handsanding is not a desirable option. The things with dremels, and the reason we discourage them for newbies, is that it is very easy to destroy a blade by taking away too much metal in 1 place, or to ruin the temper, or to just break a piece off the blade.
In your case it is probably the best option though. In which case I would advise you to use one of those flexible shaft attachments which give you more freedom of movement. And work with flap wheels, brush wheels and those things that look like a piece of sponge coated with abrasive powder. Stay away from disc and drum attachments because you have a high chance of sanding divots in the metal.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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carrolljc (07-03-2014)
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10-12-2013, 10:45 AM #18
If you are willing to spend some more money, you could look into a buffer and greaseless compounds, emery compound and polishing compounds. I ordered my polishing wheels for very little here: Free Shipping !! 4" X50 white Muslin buffing wheels ,Muslin Soft Polishing buffing wheels , Jewelry polishing tools-in Special Store from Jewelry on Aliexpress.com. I know my buffer is from China as well, but I bought it locally for 39 euros. Greaseless compounds are pretty hard to come by in Europe, but easy enough in America (Formax is a good brand).
I want a lather whip
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10-13-2013, 04:49 AM #19
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
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Thanked: 1185I use a Flex shaft Dremmel clone to sand and polish my razors if they need that much. You have to always be conscious of the wheel spin direction or you will be sorry. I have flap wheels to 180 grit but then that has to be hand sanded to a finer grit. I mostly hand sand now but I do use the rotary for polishing everything. My problem is space and I don't restore THAT many razors.
These help but not sure they would work for you.
Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.
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10-17-2013, 10:24 PM #20
I wish I could find the receipt to know where to get another one but I have this little rare earth embedded thing that I use to hold the blade tightly when I hand sand. It may have been from Bill Ellis? That thing is great and holds anything up to about a 1" blade without any edge hanging over. Ingenious device! Bad photo below (included my favorite goddess as well just because). If anyone knows who made this please let us all know.
Last edited by AirColorado; 10-17-2013 at 11:18 PM.