Thread: OK so using a dremel to restore blade isn't recommended

In that case what do you recommend to a newbie who is keen but not skilled. Don't say hand sanding been there, done that with a couple, they turned out ok but not a great way to do it if you have arthritic hands.

Make some holder for the wet n dry, way easier than to just hold it your hand.
I've used flexible diamond sheets for sanding blades, works great and they eat hard steel fast.

Originally Posted by FrankD

In that case what do you recommend to a newbie who is keen but not skilled. Don't say hand sanding been there, done that with a couple, they turned out ok but not a great way to do it if you have arthritic hands.

A recommendation isn't law... not even close. I have used a Dremel to work on blades, taking them through the full range of chuck-mounted abrasives for cleaning and polishing, and I was pleased with both the process and the results. I recommend a corded (rather than cordless) Dremel, and took advantage of the flexible shaft for ease-of-use. Also, I found a suction-clamp table-top vise to be invaluable -- used with a rare-earth magnet jig to hold the blade firmly, it allowed me to use both hands to grasp and steady the Dremel.

"Keen" comes from the heart; "skilled" comes from practice.

Smooth shaving!

+1 x 10: I agree with JB completely! A Dremel is a valuable and affordable tool if you are a hobbyist....not so much for a "in the restoration business" professional. Although I am sure they use one as well for certain aspects of the job at hand. The 'Key' is to go slow and not be in a hurry. Patience and time are your best allies. Time is money for the person in business...for the hobbyist time is your currency as well, and spent wisely with the end result in mind will give you many rewards, not the least of which is a restored razor to be proud of!

"Uses promptos facit - Practice makes perfect"

IMHO .... WP34

Originally Posted by JBHoren

A recommendation isn't law... not even close. I have used a Dremel to work on blades, taking them through the full range of chuck-mounted abrasives for cleaning and polishing, and I was pleased with both the process and the results. I recommend a corded (rather than cordless) Dremel, and took advantage of the flexible shaft for ease-of-use. Also, I found a suction-clamp table-top vise to be invaluable -- used with a rare-earth magnet jig to hold the blade firmly, it allowed me to use both hands to grasp and steady the Dremel.

"Keen" comes from the heart; "skilled" comes from practice.

Smooth shaving!

Originally Posted by JBHoren

A recommendation isn't law... not even close. I have used a Dremel to work on blades, taking them through the full range of chuck-mounted abrasives for cleaning and polishing, and I was pleased with both the process and the results. I recommend a corded (rather than cordless) Dremel, and took advantage of the flexible shaft for ease-of-use. Also, I found a suction-clamp table-top vise to be invaluable -- used with a rare-earth magnet jig to hold the blade firmly, it allowed me to use both hands to grasp and steady the Dremel.

"Keen" comes from the heart; "skilled" comes from practice.

Smooth shaving!

Ditto. I'm a newbie and don't have a lot of equipment, but the dremel is working out just fine in the heel out mod I'm doing tonight, all the polish jobs on the blades and pins(be careful) that I've done so far.

Just go slow, really slow, monitor the temperatures of the metal and concertrate. Wouldn't wanna have collet on the dremel leave a nasty scrape on the side of the blade.

Cheers.

ps-important addendum(at least to me): Find a few vintage razors for a minimal amount of money and work on them. I'm really enjoying doing just that. I'm not too upset if I fubar the sub-$10 Frederick Reynolds doing the heel out mod to remove the crack. Dig? <face shield down>

I find my dremel clone to be super useful with a variety of wire brushes.
First thing I do with an old razor is to put some Mothers on and away I go.

The wire brush knocks off most of the crud and the Mothers polishes and
lets me see what needs to be done later. Having said that, even with the
flexi-shaft I don't think a dremel can replace fine hand-sanding.

A bit of garden hose or even car radiator hose pipe is good to wrap
your paper around. Helps my arthritic hands last longer !!

I don't use my dremel much. I use the flex shaft and have a variable speed foot pedal. I do a lot of hand sanding there is a thread on a restoration by souschefdude where he uses a cork and double sided tape and wet dry and then puts it in his bench mounted drill. Check his thread http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...lm-member.html
I haven't gotten to doing something along these lines but will be. I also have a drill mounted buffing wheel on my drill in the vise. It's not as good as a buffer but a lot cheaper. I haven't had much time to use it as it is a recent acquisition. The wet dry around a cork is awesome for hand sanding, and I've done a lot of that. Slow and steady is my method, keep the dremel speed low and the pressure low and you will generate less heat. I'm not a fan of the sanding wheels for the dremel though, but if you used souschefdudes cork idea...

+1 on the variable-speed foot pedal.

Just lay the blace really flat when working ong it. And be willing to know you will screw up a blade every now and again. I use on with a flex shaft for restorations..

I use the dremmel with the wire brush or really fine grind wheel for bad spots. Do not run it on high speed and do not over heat the blade. Light touches work fine. The buffing wheel comes in handy also. Mostly though I hand sand using a wine cork and wrap the fine sand paper around the cork. Do not put too much pressure on the side of the blade or you may end up cracking it. Good luck,