Thread: Removing stuck blade from TI real frameback?

I debated whether or not to ask about this one but fearing doing damage to the blade I decided to eat my pride and get some input. I did a search the site but couldn't find anything...

I managed to get a old TI real frameback off the 'bay a bit ago and it showed up in pretty decent shape for an auction blade. Looks like just a bit of sanding and the frame and blade can be taken to full mirror or a nice satin - I'll decide how to finish it later. Scales will need to be replaced but that just gives me an excuse to create some creative new ones.

The problem is that after removing the set screw in the front, the blade won't come loose. I suspect it may have a touch of rust up under the frame and that may be holding it tight. It has what appears to be very sharp and deep etching (says Theirs Issard) so I really want to reuse the blade itself.

I know we've all experimented with quite a few chemicals for various things, but I was wondering if anyone has successfully used anything to free up a frameback's blade that may have rusted tight to the frame? No worries about damaging the scales since they'll be gone in the morning. I thought about various products to soak it in overnight but figured a few of you have solved this one already so why re-invent the solution?

Kroil
or
PB Blaster

The Kroil is easier and better, but the PB is available at Wallymart

Thanks Glen - Kroil it is. Did some research and it looks like spending a few $ more and waiting a few days for the shipment is worth it. Hell I was thinking about Liquid Wrench which probably would have melted the blade or something equally undesirable (like not work at all or stain it too badly to sand out). The wait will give me time to design some scales anyway.

One of the Gunshops should have Kroil in stock

Just out of curiousity, Liquid Wrench actually sounds like a good idea. Has anyone tried it?

One trick when things are stuck but still should be able to come apart is to put it in the ultrasonic cleaner, it can vibrate anything loose.

It's my opinion that if Kroil doesn't free a rusty part, nothing short of a torch will. The stuff is awesome. As mentioned already, gun stores may carry it. I've also seen it at a local wood stove dealer, might check one of those if you have trouble finding it.

Originally Posted by skipnord

Just out of curiousity, Liquid Wrench actually sounds like a good idea. Has anyone tried it?

Yep it works too. Most any real penetrating oil will make a good attempt.

IME
Kroil is just the best, period I have not found any better in years.

PB blaster is much like LW but seems to work a bit faster and a bit better I use it on the Tractor etc:
LW works it is the standard of all these procucts..

I have used the vinegar soak and then dried and kroiled the blade. Tapping the spine on a hard surface will vibrate the oil into all the hidden spaces. I also padded a small vise grips and used it to wiggle the blade a bit at first and then more and more. If at first it doesn't wiggle penetrating oil, some taps, and a bit of time, some taps, and try again.
I have done about five of them so far and none were without some work.
Do Not Lose the Screw!! It is an odd size that I have not been able to match and today I am taking a frame to a watch/clock maker to see if the horological community has a replacement. Thanks for the reminder!
~Richard
PS. Have appointment with clockmaker for Friday! Watch?? this space.

PPS I do hold the removed blade with a strong magnet to sand the sides of it on a piece of wet dry placed on a softer hard felt equivalent surface to allow the paper to conform to the blade. Don't overdo the top of the blade though.

Originally Posted by Geezer

I have used the vinegar soak and then dried and kroiled the blade. Tapping the spine on a hard surface will vibrate the oil into all the hidden spaces. I also padded a small vise grips and used it to wiggle the blade a bit at first and then more and more. If at first it doesn't wiggle penetrating oil, some taps, and a bit of time, some taps, and try again.
I have done about five of them so far and none were without some work.
Do Not Lose the Screw!! It is an odd size that I have not been able to match and today I am taking a frame to a watch/clock maker to see if the horological community has a replacement. Thanks for the reminder!
~Richard
PS. Have appointment with clockmaker for Friday! Watch?? this space.

PPS I do hold the removed blade with a strong magnet to sand the sides of it on a piece of wet dry placed on a softer hard felt equivalent surface to allow the paper to conform to the blade. Don't overdo the top of the blade though.

Some more great info there! Yup I was thinking that the screws were unique - have about 5 or 6 other real framebacks myself that need a clean up so this will come in handy repeatedly.

If you have trouble finding the screws I believe there are a few guys in SoCal on here that may be able to help if they're anywhere near Redondo Beach. If it's still there (been 15 years or so) I used to live in RPV and used a little watchmaker's shop in Redondo a few times for bringing really old wrist watches and pocket watches back to life. Wish I could recall the name of it. It's on the south end of the beach blvd in that little area before heading uphill to PV. IF someone is close-by there let me know and I'll search a bit harder.