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Thread: getting blade to center?

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    Senior Member jdoc's Avatar
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    Default getting blade to center?

    Hi everyone, so i have been restoring razors for a bit now and i find that sometimes when i glue m wedge and pin my blade that it just will not line up center? Are there some tricks i am missing do i have my steps in the wrong order? I am gluing the wedge before i pin the blade, should i pin the blade first then glue the wedge? I have had some luck with using different size washers to offset it so it is center but not on all of them. Your thoughts on getting the blade center every time?

    Best regards

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    are you checking the blade/tang straightness first ???
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    Huh... Oh here pfries's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    are you checking the blade/tang straightness first ???
    I was going to note that it is as much an art as science.
    It is just Whisker Whacking
    Relax and Enjoy!
     



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    Old wedges are warped a shockingly high percentage of the time. So sometimes it doesnt pay to break out the scales. Washers help, and you could do some light grinding at the pivot.
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    Senior Member jdoc's Avatar
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    Im using all new parts, not any old wedges , all new G10 parts. As far as i can tell the tang and blade are straight? Could the pivot hole in the tang be drilled off square from the factory and that is what is causing this?

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Let me find the pics ETC: on the issues I have them on here someplace.. Basically yes you have to test the razor first BEFORE you even start the build on the scales..

    Test = Set the razor flat on a flat surface place finger over tang hole and press down, look at the distance between the spine and the surface.. Flip razor and repeat observe any difference

    Here

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ing-razor.html
    Last edited by gssixgun; 10-24-2013 at 08:49 PM.

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    Senior Member jdoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Let me find the pics ETC: on the issues I have them on here someplace.. Basically yes you have to test the razor first BEFORE you even start the build on the scales..

    Test = Set the razor flat on a flat surface place finger over tang hole and press down, look at the distance between the spine and the surface.. Flip razor and repeat observe any difference

    will link pics soon
    Ok thank you that would be great

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Another thread on another fix, even more pics

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ml#post1142446

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    Scuse a noob for talking out of turn, but I got this idea from someone and if it is wrong then I need to know before I try it myself, and why it is wrong too. Okay so the scales are pinned snug to the razor. The area at the pivot steers the blade in between the scales, right? So couldn't you sand away a little material in the right places to steer it in the center? In other words, let's say the "show" side is the one you show off, has the etching and stuff, and call the other side the back side. Lets say the toe of the razor wants to dig into the back side scale. Couldn't you sand a little right at the pivot but toward the pointy end, to let the tang over to the back side, and sand a little on the show side scale, at the pivot but away from the pointy end of the scale, on the show side scale, to steer the razor more toward the show side scale when it closes? I think it would be easier than grinding on the tang itself.

    Also how about pinning the wedge end together first before drilling the pivot hole and checking how the razor points relative to a tightly fitting pin in the razor's pivot hole, and then to drill the pivot holes in the scales, shim the heel end up appropriately so that the angle of the pivot holes will correctly line up the pivot pin and also the blade?

    Last but not least, how about cutting the scales about 3/8" overlength and doing sort of a trial pinning to check centering, and correct the angle as needed when drilling the REAL pivot holes, then cut off the excess? I was just given some microfastener bolts and the fact that they are removable and reusable got me thinking about trial pinning to check fit.

    I have a couple of projects going and when they are ready for pinning they will be my first attempt at pinning new scales on a razor so I am all ears. I am putting a lot of time and effort into the two razors so I want the scales to come out right.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TulaneBoy View Post
    Scuse a noob for talking out of turn, but I got this idea from someone and if it is wrong then I need to know before I try it myself, and why it is wrong too. Okay so the scales are pinned snug to the razor. The area at the pivot steers the blade in between the scales, right? So couldn't you sand away a little material in the right places to steer it in the center? In other words, let's say the "show" side is the one you show off, has the etching and stuff, and call the other side the back side. Lets say the toe of the razor wants to dig into the back side scale. Couldn't you sand a little right at the pivot but toward the pointy end, to let the tang over to the back side, and sand a little on the show side scale, at the pivot but away from the pointy end of the scale, on the show side scale, to steer the razor more toward the show side scale when it closes? I think it would be easier than grinding on the tang itself.

    Also how about pinning the wedge end together first before drilling the pivot hole and checking how the razor points relative to a tightly fitting pin in the razor's pivot hole, and then to drill the pivot holes in the scales, shim the heel end up appropriately so that the angle of the pivot holes will correctly line up the pivot pin and also the blade?

    Last but not least, how about cutting the scales about 3/8" overlength and doing sort of a trial pinning to check centering, and correct the angle as needed when drilling the REAL pivot holes, then cut off the excess? I was just given some microfastener bolts and the fact that they are removable and reusable got me thinking about trial pinning to check fit.

    I have a couple of projects going and when they are ready for pinning they will be my first attempt at pinning new scales on a razor so I am all ears. I am putting a lot of time and effort into the two razors so I want the scales to come out right.
    You're not talking out of turn but if you were to hit the links you would find all this info already on SRP with detailed drawings and Pics.. No one ever suggested Grinding on the tang other then you BTW

    Right here also is more restore info then you could ever imagine found always at the top of the Workshop forum in bright red

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html
    Last edited by gssixgun; 10-24-2013 at 09:57 PM.
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