Thread: Question on using metal liners for the wedge

So every time I've use liners the metal splinter shavings get lodges into the wedge material... Leaving a messy line between the two materials... So I have to take the wedge completely apart, clear away the spinsters of metal still hanging on to the liner, sand it smooth, then reassemble... Any tips or pointers?

If you take a look at the Workshop sticky at the top of this forum in red there are a couple of threads in there about how to do them, lots a great tips in there from quite a few of us..

Take a look

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

Originally Posted by gssixgun

If you take a look at the Workshop sticky at the top of this forum in red there are a couple of threads in there about how to do them, lots a great tips in there from quite a few of us..

Take a look

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

Yeah I did but mentioned nothing about the splinters of metal and how to deal with it... Possibly I need to switch to epoxy instead of super glue and watch the heat up from the belt sander

Form the wedge with a belt sander if available at a 120 grit or so belt, fine fit with a 240 grit belt, final sand and polish with 400 grit and higher sandpaper by hand...

Always final sand by hand and it will eliminate most issues with finishes and razors

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Form the wedge with a belt sander if available at a 120 grit or so belt, fine fit with a 240 grit belt, final sand and polish with 400 grit and higher sandpaper by hand...

Always final sand by hand and it will eliminate most issues with finishes and razors

Yeah did some test wedges today.. It is a glue issue... As the metal heated up it was separating from the wedge and metal particles was getting in between... Also epoxy smells less than super glue... Hah

.. from my (limited) experiences the heat is going to be a problem, when I used epoxy also, so I suggest you sand and take care of not heating it. Also superglue (CA and epoxy do not smell the same)... if I'm wrong on anything feel free correct me !

Epoxies will have problems with heat as well. The highest temp epoxy that I know of for "reasonable" money is Cotronics. I have used one of theirs that is good to about 500F for supersonic rockets. At $12-15/oz. (unfortunately you must mix the whole ounce) it is a bit pricey but hey its rocket science!

Once again in the original thread, you will find the answer

In that one thread original Gorilla Glue is mentioned specifically because it works well with the heat buildup
In other threads you will find much the same

CA and Epoxy tend to come apart, and most use Adhesives, e6000, T-???? can't remember the number at the moment, but most high quality General Adhesives tend to work the best.. I am sure there are exceptions to the general rule

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Once again in the original thread, you will find the answer

In that one thread original Gorilla Glue is mentioned specifically because it works well with the heat buildup
In other threads you will find much the same

CA and Epoxy tend to come apart, and most use Adhesives, e6000, T-???? can't remember the number at the moment, but most high quality General Adhesives tend to work the best.. I am sure there are exceptions to the general rule

Yeah gorilla glue is the first thing I tried.. Maybe I didn't clamp down hard enough but the foam even from the low foam version was annoying

Originally Posted by Heespharm

Yeah gorilla glue is the first thing I tried.. Maybe I didn't clamp down hard enough but the foam even from the low foam version was annoying

Don't know what you did wrong, perhaps a different type, the biggest reason for fail using Gorilla Glue is not using a damp surface..

I find e6000 to be the easiest now, another that is available easily is called Beacon Multi Grip Glue both of these require nothing special in fact you can simply use a Alligator Clip as a clamp and they will work..

Multi-Grip

Amazing E-6000 Glue - Walmart.com