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Thread: Dahlgren Ongoing Resurrection

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    Senior Member AirColorado's Avatar
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    Lemur I haven't used a DMT shim before, is it used essentially like sandpaper? I've just finished up with the 400 and will post something shortly but I like the shim idea if it bends enough to erase hone marks along the spine.

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    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirColorado View Post
    Lemur I haven't used a DMT shim before, is it used essentially like sandpaper? I've just finished up with the 400 and will post something shortly but I like the shim idea if it bends enough to erase hone marks along the spine.
    I use them like this; http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...rp-sheets.html
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    Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.

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    Senior Member AirColorado's Avatar
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    Thanks - guess I'll need to get some, I can come up with a few things I can use them for. Hope my Amazon Prime is still active...

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    Senior Member AirColorado's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention earlier, this one is 5/8 at the heel and goes up to just over 6/8 at the toe - probably why I like its shape.

    Thought I was done with 400 greaseless but after looking at these pictures I'm thinking I need one more session before going to 600. Here's both sides of the blade. You can see the back side is basically good, just one pit left on the blade and one behind it. I'd hate to remove more metal to get the last of it - but maybe I'm wrong.

    The face side is much better too, but, there are 2 pits on the blade I may not be able to take looking at. One near the bevel that's pretty small and another near the toe that seems to have a little more metal around it that's "depressed looking" in the right light.


    The face is much better now - you can see the pit near the bevel area about an inch before the toe
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    Reverse side now has one dimple on the blade and one in front of the pivot hole - it's just a dark area in the photo
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    Back to the face, the pit near the toe in the right light looks "depressed" somehow
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    Turn the blade slightly and the depressed area disappears and you see only the pit near the bevel area
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    So the question is do I stay at 400 and get what I can of those remaining pits or move on to 600 and start cleaning up the scratch marks? I'm thinking another 15 minutes at 400 is necessary but I may be too much of a perfectionist.
    Last edited by AirColorado; 12-09-2013 at 10:15 PM.
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    Senior Member AirColorado's Avatar
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    Went back into the shop this morning and back to this blade. Decided to give it a bit more time on 400 and then go to 600. Once it looked like all the scratches from 400 were gone I did about 30 minutes hand sanding with 800 and 1,000 wet/dry paper. Then back to the buffers and hit it well with black, white, stainless (green), and rouge (red). Wiped it down and it looked good. Then after working on a few other projects came into to snap some pics.

    My eyes must be going! It looked smooth and ready to go in the shop, but after looking at the pictures it's clear I need to go all the way back to 800 for a bit. It shines but there are way too many scratches to be anywhere near ready to go. Okay, back to the grind... Have some business to attend tomorrow so it'll be Thursday before I'll make any more progress on this one. Hopefully this is done then and I can start on scales.

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    Senior Member bongo's Avatar
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    Inga is looking hot !!
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    http://straightrazorplace.com/workshop/18504-welcome-workshop-how-do-i-where-do-i-what-do-i-answers-here.html

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    Senior Member AirColorado's Avatar
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    Unless I maul her she should be a real looker! Didn't do anything to it today because I had to actually cross my property line and go do some stuff. Tomorrow she has another date with the wheels and some hand sanding. Then I have to find (or make) her scales to mate with.

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    the deepest roots TwistedOak's Avatar
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    I think the blade face looks fine... is it the picture or is the dahlgren etch getting burned?

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