Dang..... why do I feel as though this isn't going to be easy.
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Sounds a little odd to me that if the scale material was poured as a hot liquid into a mold with the inlays set, that said liquid would not have moved the fine inlays in some way.
I'd better go back and read the coticule link again. I read it once some time ago.
my money goes to the scales poured into a mold with part of the mold being a brand, so to speak of the inlay. Then the inlay was set and the scales polished to grade (height of inlay)..........
Hey, it's fun making stuff up.
Here's the one I used the bartop on. My old Christmas razor! What a mess! :rofl2:
Although, I totally forgot that I did do scales out of canvas micarta that I coated in gloss poly and it adhere very well. Probably a better surface to bond to than a smooth plastic.
Attachment 221825
Maybe my idea just might work with the micarta. Think this or wood, like you said Tom, might be my best shot.
Yeah. Some stiff material and you are in with most anything. I may have allowed the poly to cure a few days without bending it as well. The scales on that Christmas razor were old, thin Novelty liners with a few 'flip-flop' decorations.
Pretty much fabric with beads glued on. I was impressed at how it filled and leveled with no bubbles. It also was quite flexible, at least as I assembled, honed, and used the razor once a year for a few years on Christmas day!
Don't discount the G-10, Andrew. Toughest stuff ever. Experiment with that as well?
Has anyone ever suggested that the inlay was poured as a liquid into a negative space on the surface of the scales?
Don't think the metal would flow at all if poured onto the scale. Would be all ripply like hot magma I'm thinking..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MYAFfeNO00