Ok, didn't realize this. So the convex that seems to be in the blade sand with that. The heel and toe are lower than the center. Also I'm using a 1 inch pvc piece should I go bigger? Thanks for the guidance.
Printable View
Ok, didn't realize this. So the convex that seems to be in the blade sand with that. The heel and toe are lower than the center. Also I'm using a 1 inch pvc piece should I go bigger? Thanks for the guidance.
I find bigger can be hard to control. It is going to depend on how well you can work with it. Truly the only way to know is to try a little bigger piece. With a wobble maybe longer is better than wider, unless that was the question. Are we talking one inch diameter or length?
1 inch diameter and about 7 inches long.
You have to preserve the top of the spine/honewear and the bevel area somewhat as you are removing metal. You want to have a 'curve' in-between. If you take them down, much more has to be done to correct, even if action is taken.Quote:
Originally Posted by ejmolitor37
Has to be done close on both sides as well.
Go for preserving the bevel and the top of the spine. Keep them as-is. Go for concavity in-between.
1 inch long.....1 inch diameter....Quote:
Originally Posted by ejmolitor37
Cut it down to 1 inch in length? Not doubting just curious as to why?
Blades curve. Don't be changing it. 7 inch roll makes a sword or something.
Just thin the middle out! Get down close to the edge, but not the edge!
Think about a tiny bevel.
Ok I think I understand now. I'll cut it down and continue. Thanks for the help gents :)
Attachment 277106Attachment 277107
So more like This? Also, where the pen is make that gradually smaller same with the spine. And I'm headed in the right direction?
Yes. Part. Of your target is to sand it down above the wide part of the bevel, the bevel width indicates it is a little thicker there.if the bevel is set it make it easier to see the thick and thin.
It totally makes sense now. I put a straight edge across the blade face and it clicked. Thanks Tom and Shaun, much appreciated.
Looking good, Eric. You're on your way now and probably have a sense of the time it will take to get where you want to. Doesn't seem so bad once you get a start on it. Funny about sanding your finger, I did the same to mine yesterday sanding a wedge for scales. Duh. Wasn't using a little jig, trying to just grip it on both ends.
Keep going, looking forward to seeing the progress!
Oh boy this will be an adventure for sure Tuzi. Now I have a grasp of what is actually going on it won't be so bad. Sad part is I have a like at least 3 more that will need this same treatment. But once you get going it's not too bad :) great write up btw, I remember following it after re reading it.
Looking great there Eric :tu
Watch them fingers, and now that you've got it figured out I'm loking forward to your success
Another thing to mention....Stay light at the end of the blade. I always tend to get that too thin as the roll drops off, the tendency to have it tilt causes it. Keep the roll flat up there.
Looking forward to more advise from Tuzi as this progresses.
He knows how to do it correctly. Anything I do is like an accident. ;)
That's what I'm hoping for Tom, an accident that looks good :) hopefully I got my accident out of the way last night with my finger tip. Out of all the monkey business with razors last night was the first actual cut from one. Good track record I guess.
Nice work fellas, its been a few days since I've looked in on the thread, found I was quite a few pages behind.!
I couldn't agree more Tuzi.Quote:
Originally Posted by xiaotuzi
Yeah Eric, a Dremel is limited with what you can do with one so I agree with you & Tuzi. I have used mine for polishing sometimes, shortening a blade or taking some of the edge off but as I have always mentioned, if used wrong, it can have a very unpleasant outcome plus injury may occur. When using one, ya gotta keep in mind which way the tool is rotating.Quote:
Originally Posted by ejmolitor37
Quote:
Originally Posted by xiaotuzi
Don't feel all alone Mike. I was catching up as you can see the above quotes were from a few pages ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
In between hand sanding my W&B wedge, I started working on my W&B FBO. There were some ugly scratches just above the bevel, sanded those mostly out didntdidn't want to work that area too much. Other than that used mothers and white scotchbrite. Been using the white scotchbrite and polish quite a bit, it cleans nicely, doesn't scratch and doesnt effect the original finish. Attachment 277474Attachment 277475Attachment 277476Attachment 277477
Looking Good My Friend :tu
Nice, Eric. The FBO is a cool razor, you don't see that every day, it's looking good and clean too. Thanks for the tip on the white scotchbrite with mothers. Gonna have to get me some white scotchbrite.
Thanks Gents, I agree you don't see these as often plus it was dumb luck I found it. I honestly don't know where to get the white, I bought mine at work. I think in grit it goes, white= fine, gray = medium and red is rough. The red is what I used for satin finish on my Tally Ho.
Once upon a time I had a chart with grit equivilances for Scotchbrite and other brands compared to each other and steel wool. If memory serves me correctly white scotchbrite is slight finer grit than 0000 steel wool and the blue is equal to the 0000. It has been a long time and my mind is a terrible place to try to store facts. It is great combine with polish for sure and washes out easily too.
The blade is looking good, you should have it back to work soon enough.
I concur! Not only nice work but a unique blade. I have one and it only states the FBO on the shank. And it's a Great Shaver. :tuQuote:
Originally Posted by xiaotuzi
Great job Eric. I got my white at a watch tools & parts supply but I think they stopped selling it. I'm sure someone may have it. I just looked at a jewelry making supply & they have it at https://www.riogrande.com/search?q=white+rouge&c=&t=1.Quote:
Originally Posted by ejmolitor37
You can often get them at paint stores and in the paint department at places like Rona
I've not seen any blue, I'll have to keep an eye out. Once I get some horn I'll have it running. Came in plastic scales that had been cut off at the pivot end. So sad :/
Harbor Freight has the blue, I know for sure if there is one near you. They have others plus they might have the white too. I bet I have some (white) from there out in the garage.Quote:
Originally Posted by ejmolitor37
Good looking blade Eric. I too have some of the white and grey scotch bright. Love the stuff myself.
Here is the bigger of the two Imperials I got. It really was in great shape so just cleaned it up without unpinning. While I was polishing I felt something odd so had to get a closer look. This thing is double beveled. Just a little but you can feel it and see a line across the blade. Tried to get a pic of it.
Honed up really easy although the bevel is a tiny bit wavy. I will give it a test shave in the morning.
Attachment 277483Attachment 277484
Well you guys give the white and polish a shot, let me know what you think. It works well for those that don't need devils spot and rust removed.
Thats for sure! It wont do nothing for devil spit!Quote:
Originally Posted by ejmolitor37
I don't know of anything that gets rid of devils spit except for sandpaper & if it's very minor, maybe a fiberglass pen.
I think that is a bellied hollow grind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
There you go. Guess I got the wrong words. Again! Bellied and didn't know it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 32t
Yep, looks like it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 32t
I wonder if all of these are this way. Or if it was a flaw in the grind?
It was done on purpose. Bluesman7 makes these.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
I looked and found this.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...s-san-mai.html
Those blades are looking great guys :tu
Looking forward to seeing that FBO finished Eric
