What are you working on?

Looking good Jerry!
It sure is hard to keep the lines crisp with a buffer/grinder, and by hand is tough. By hand will keep the pits from digging out but is hard on the hands, and the buffer fast but those lines and pit digging..
There's the belt grinder and double wheel thingy but that's a whole other bag of chips I've never opened..
One thing I've been wondering for a while is if a blade jig can be made and adjusted just right to protect the edges to keep them sharp... eg. along the spine.. ?
I saw this buffer for $50 but would have to make a variable speed control..
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Is this an okay buffer?

Looks good. How fast does it turn?

I have held a blade in my left hand by the spine and sanded a flat tang nicely using a small vibrating sander in my right hand.
Works good! :D

It only runs at 3500.
Don't know the proper speeds though..

I think I'm going to save up for a Foredom which already has variable speed. Those small ones on the Bay look nice..?

Just saw a small true orbital sander online with 1.25 to 3" disc sanding attachments on the Bay. But crazy expensive.
Let me dig up a pic.
EDIT:
Okay here it is. 650 big ones! Jiminy Cricket! That's expensive.
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It would work with small wheels. Sure looks nice. 1750 would be best. I would buy the thing for 50 and get some 3 inch buffs for it!

The rpm's of the motor and the diameter of the wheel make up the surface speed. That is what is important. Different combinations make up the same thing. Don't ask me to post numbers now but I have read many concerning this in different threads.

Went with the satin finish on the blade face and back. I think I might be able to work the line between the blade and tang a little sharper, but my hands are throwing a fit.
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Think you have arrived at a good place, Jerry! :D

I dig the little gatling-gun! :tu

The buffer is fine. Mine run at 3500 too. I keep the small wheels and wet the blade often. Also I don’t use it a lot. It does get used but not nearly as much as my wine cork and wet dry. They have their place just don’t buff the shit out of everything and be cautious about heating the blade up. Now that I have typed that in it, I know you are aware of these things and it was more of a reminder for everyone just looking at or just starting with a buffer.

The shelf and the blade is looking good. I do like the funky symmetry of the shelf.
When I actually get a chance to work on razors, it’s hard for me to decide if I am done or just done for today. Often less is better.

If mine and Tim's math are the same....Half the speed and twice the diameter is same as twice the speed and half the diameter.
I like the 3 inch and down buffs on my old bench grinder I use (3450).
We ARE working on small stuff anyway.

I will spend a fortune on a razzer, but nothing on a buffer! :roflmao

(unless it's dirt cheap!)

See how my math is tonight. So that means with a 3 inch wheel you are running 541.65 feet per second surface speed.

Dang it I knew my math was off that should be inches per second!:D

Let’s see.
3” wheel is 9.42 inches in diameter or 0.785 feet at 3450 rpm is 2708.25 feet per minute or 45.1375 feet per second.

Whatever! :rofl2:

Thanks for the math! :)
So has anybody come up with "the golden fps" yet?
Otherwise I'm gonna go with 45fps..

Yeah.....That's it!....SURE! :roflmao


So....What about a 1750 RPM with a 3 inch wheel? 2250 FPS? Never been there....
Funny how it costs more to go slower...WTH?

I'm getting 22.89fps on that one.
Dang it!
Well anybody have any other speed variations?
I could do an average? :)

I take it slower is better, those Foredoms go from 500rpm to much more than is needed..
Edit: or actually maybe not too slow..

Speed and pressure are two big factors in heat. Also let your greaseless dry before going to town. As it is wet and sticky it has a ton of drag, and grab. They also generate a ton of dust.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

Let’s see.
3” wheel is 9.42 inches in diameter or 0.785 feet at 3450 rpm is 2708.25 feet per minute or 45.1375 feet per second.

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I knew I should have stayed away from math tonight! You, I think are correct. I think so but that does not mean I am right. LOL

I think you missed converting from inches to feet.

I had that info figured out on how to figure the right measurement at one time and I posted it here somewhere. :shrug: But I remember that the 3" is what would be best. But 4" was close enough and cheaper to buy.

I got tired of playing with the same razor for many hours, so I dug up this little 5/8, Cleaned it up and repinned. I had to rework the heal/stabilizer a bit but it just came on the stones and feel very nice. Its got some pitting close to the edge but not much in the bevel.

Geller, Ward and Hasner Hardware of St. Louis, MO.
Double Hollow Ground. Cheap plastic bamboo scales that are warped and a bit on the ugly side, but its an American Razor so why not!

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BTW, The horn scales on the French razor are soaking. Hope to get it back together next weekend.

I started on the last two razors, belonging to MrZ.
Blades only need a bit of cleaning at the pivots, its the scales that need attention.

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Giving the scales for his Reynolds another day of drying, and will be pinned later thus evening

I am about to have three awesome razors! I would have tried to use CA glue to fill those bug bites, but I really liked those razors to much to mess them up, so off to Akron for a champion restorer to do it right. I will keep trying on junk blades, but Outback is the man. I cant wait to see them.

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Here are the scales from the Tally Ho that I'm working on.

I did a bit of sanding with 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and they are cleaning up. However, the blacker of the halves has some gouges in it as seen in the 2nd pic. Should I just do my best to smooth that out with some lower grit paper and then work my way up again to the higher grit paper? I've got up to 3000 grit if needed.

Also, I think I've heard about soaking in oil at some point?

Yup. Try some scotchbrite. I love that on horn scales. Fine steel-wool. Blends things nicely, for me.

Depends on the finish you want. I typically go no lower than 400 grt., then 600, 0000 steel wool, for a grainy matte look. Or I'll go as high as 1500grt., and buff for a polished finish.

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Made the repairs on MrZ's scales tonite, and was about to pin up the Reynolds when I remembered I still needed to make a wedge for it. :banghead: DAMMIT.!!

Im off work tomorrow, so I'll have it ready for an evening shave, after I hone it that is..:gaah:

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There is so much to learn from all of you guys. The quality of work that goes on around here is amazing.

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Originally Posted by MrZ

There is so much to learn from all of you guys. The quality of work that goes on around here is amazing.

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This is true!

Finally..!!

I got the wedge made and fitted to the scales using mock up screws, and the help of a piece of paint stick to replicate the tang. Once the mass of the wedge has been removed from around the scales, I replace the paint stick with the actual blade, so I can shift the scales and center the blade without having to use shims on the tang, then snug it all down and do the final fitting on the wedge.

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Then a quick dismantle, and pinned up with some of Austin's collars, and brass rod.

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Ready for the hones..Attachment 296066

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I noticed a drilling error on this one. I was thinking that filling this in with epoxy might be the trick. Any better approach to this?

Also, if I buff these, is there a preferred buffing compound for this?

I have some pinning supplies on the way, so I'll be wrapping up this project soon.

Use a filler like the horn dust u created while sanding them. Fill the hole with dust, but don't pack it. Then a drop of CA from both sides, sand smooth n buff.

Good as new..!!

I figured it would be something like that. I've been trying to pay attention in here. ;) Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Gasman

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That’s really well done. Artistic even.

90% symetrical - 1 board different. I never would have come up with that touch.

I have to admit, it is way out of the realm of what i normally do. Im just glad others liked it too. One board placed out of normal made a big and total difference.

It still blows my mind that I DID THiS. The guy who is always picky about everything matching.

Sanded the repairs on MrZ"s last two sets of scales, and put them in hair dye for a couple hours, now the wait as they soak up some oil.

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Outstanding transformation!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gasman

I have to admit, it is way out of the realm of what i normally do. Im just glad others liked it too. One board placed out of normal made a big and total difference.

It still blows my mind that I DID THiS. The guy who is always picky about everything matching.

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For some reason I have this urge to play Pachinko when I look at it.:D

While I'm waiting for the scales in oil, I figured I better get started on one of eight, from MikeT.

I nice little "Never Dull" in ivory. Pinned with collars from the fines catalog, and a inappropriate plastic wedge.

Curious as to why there is two pivot holes in the tang, anyone know why.?

So some lite repairs to the scales (pin holes)
A new wedge.
And collarless pinning, as should be.
Honed n test shave.

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I'm giddy as a school girl right now!
:)

I tried the epoxy and dust to fix a couple tiny spots on the sides of some horn scales just the other day. Didnt set up well. Maybe i didnt het the mix right. When i tried to sand it, it was gummy and pulled right off. Today, before work i tried again with some CA and dust. The spots, dents are very small and i made a hell of a mess with the CA, but i got it to stick and fill. Its going to take some serious sanding to clean them back up.

Figured id do the Tom trick and try the sharpie. Hope to get the French blade back together on my next days off.

Nice work on those scales Mike. That one was so chewed up its jard to believe you got it filled.