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Thread: Should I work on this TR Cadman?

  1. #11
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    What a cool old razor! If it were me, this is what I'd do, purchase some crocus cloth, standard and fine auto paint rubbing compounds. You'll need some alcohol or mineral spirits to get that tape gum off so you may as well go ahead and clean the scales too. Caution! Alcohol can destroy your scales so only use it as a contact cleaner and get it off of them. As for the blade you can soak it in alcohol to disinfect it, then hot soapy water with a tooth brush. Next tear off some small strips of crocus cloth and dip into that coarse rubbing compound to clean the blade. Be careful how much pressure you put on it not to crack or break the thin edge or scales. You would do well to rest it on a piece of card board laid on a board. That way you will have a dampening affect and not scratch any progress you make. Rub it well to get all the rust and most of the heaviest patina off. Then use a piece of either the back of the crocus cloth or some cheese cloth to polish it with the fine rubbing compound. This will not get you to a mirror finish. This method is only intended to clean up your razor so you'll have a clean old razor with lots of character and not wash out your blade etching. Next, you'll need to hone it and strop it before use. I don't know what your experience level for that is.

    Good luck.

    Show us your progress.

    Regards

    Chasmo

  2. #12
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Looking at the pics I’d figure the odds be 50/50. You just can’t tell till it is on the stones.
    baldy likes this.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member nonick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maladroit View Post
    I've had second thoughts on this: a 220 grit stone is probably a bit aggressive and might unnecessarily widen the bevel. Just start with a few passes on a 1000 grit hone, that should be enough to discover whether you have clean metal at edge and therefore the ability to set the bevel without corrosion pits ruining it. If you're inexperienced at honing you may wish to then do a clean up of the blade to the point where you're satisfied with the finish and then send it on to an expert to bring the edge up to the shave ready level. There are a few people in Australia who offer honing services, including Oz (Onimaru55) who is very highly regarded.

    Thanks everyone for your advice and ideas.

    I have sent it to Oz to see how the edge is - if it falls on the right side of the 50/50 I'll look forward to working on the blade when it comes back. If not.. it returns to it's rego sticker duties at which it excelled.

    My friend gave it to me to use, it's not to be returned as he has no real use for it. it would have a little value to me because of that but it's not the end of the world if I make a mistake (I hope).

    The pins are not too bad. They are a little loose as it leaves the scales, but it tightens up coming around to open position so I don't plan to touch them if I can avoid it.

    I'll keep this post updated with pics as I go and if the advice keeps coming I shouldn't go to far wrong :-)

    THanks

  4. #14
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    Good luck - I'm looking forward to watching your progress!
    - Chris -

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Well Nick, I've gone at it pretty hard with a 320 grit stone & a good area of the bevel is quite clean tho some pits are an issue especially that one in the first pic, right side.
    A proper bevel will still need to be set after any work you do but I'd raise the odds more in favour of a light restore now as these razors are worth the trouble.
    You also have horn scales in good condition. Pics below are @200x & 3 layers of tape during the edge recovery
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Last edited by onimaru55; 02-04-2014 at 02:58 AM.
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  6. The Following User Says Thank You to onimaru55 For This Useful Post:

    nonick (02-04-2014)

  7. #16
    Senior Member nonick's Avatar
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    Wow Oz thanks for your fast work, I really appreciate it.

    Could you also set out how you would tackle working on that blade? I don't have any machinery but I'm happy to put time in hand sanding

    List of materials would be a handing shopping list too :-)

    (Does the inscription on the blade make it more careful work? I guess too aggressive sanding would take that right off eventually)

    Thanks mate
    Last edited by nonick; 02-04-2014 at 03:14 AM.

  8. #17
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Murphy's Law says that the etching is usually as deep as the pitting so start with the least invasive approach & see if you are happy.
    Don't push hard on the paper... SiC cuts well on it's own with a little WD 40. I reckon 240, 400, 600,1000 grit will cover you . Then some Autosol.
    400-600 would do as a minimalist approach. It's never going to be a looker but it can be clean.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  9. #18
    Senior Member nonick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chasmo View Post
    What a cool old razor! If it were me, this is what I'd do, purchase some crocus cloth, standard and fine auto paint rubbing compounds. You'll need some alcohol or mineral spirits to get that tape gum off so you may as well go ahead and clean the scales too. Caution! Alcohol can destroy your scales so only use it as a contact cleaner and get it off of them.

    Chasmo
    Clean old razor with character is what I'll aim for I think thanks Chasmo. I don't want to loose the etching if I can avoid it or end up with a pitted mirror.

    What grade Crocus cloth would you get?

    So to clean the scales you'd wipe them with turps or metho and clean it off with a damp cloth or such like?

  10. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nonick View Post
    Clean old razor with character is what I'll aim for I think thanks Chasmo. I don't want to loose the etching if I can avoid it or end up with a pitted mirror.

    What grade Crocus cloth would you get?

    So to clean the scales you'd wipe them with turps or metho and clean it off with a damp cloth or such like?
    Crocus is a grade of abrasive cloth. It is a mild abrasive on one side and durable cloth on the other. I like to use denatured alcohol to wipe down the whole razor scales and all. Then wipe the alcohol off the scales. After I soak only the blade in alcohol using it as a disinfectant, next I like to use hot soapy water and a tooth brush to get the grunge off them. They will dry fast enough if you use hot tap water to rinse the soap off. Once dry, a drop of oil in the hinge pin should keep the rust from developing. That crocus with the rubbing compound will clean up a lot of the patina and leave it with some character. Just be careful of the pressure you exert. You don’t want to break your scales or chip your edge. The extra fine rubbing compound with a soft cloth will clean the scales even further. When I get home from work perhaps I can post a picture of a Le Grelot I cleaned up in such a fashion.

    Regards

    Chasmo

  11. #20
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    Name:  Le Grelot 7:8_.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chasmo View Post
    When I get home from work perhaps I can post a picture of a Le Grelot I cleaned up in such a fashion.

    Regards

    Chasmo
    This razor wasn't terrible when I received it but it did need some attention. It is a really good shaver and shows the character of a device that has survived generations. It hasn't been annealed by a buffing wheel only hand rubbed. Some call me old fashioned and old timey. Perhaps that is something this old razor and I have in common.

    Let us see how you make out with it.

    Chasmo
    Last edited by Chasmo; 02-04-2014 at 06:00 PM. Reason: The pictures didn't show up.

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