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Thread: Should I work on this TR Cadman?

  1. #21
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I would spray it down with WD40 and with a single edge razor blade to cut off all the rust and crud from the blade. A wooden coffee stir stick and a paper towel will get the soap and gunk from between the scales.

    Some 000 steel wool and some more WD40 will remove all the rust from the blade and metal polish will shine it some and leave the patina and etching completely intact. Same for the scales then polish them with a paper towel and metal polish.

    You will end with a clean razor with a nice patina, and you can decide if you want to go further with the polished route or leave it as it is and hone it.

    I do like a razor with character, looks like you may have one there.
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    I would spray it down with WD40 and with a single edge razor blade to cut off all the rust and crud from the blade. A wooden coffee stir stick and a paper towel will get the soap and gunk from between the scales.

    Some 000 steel wool and some more WD40 will remove all the rust from the blade and metal polish will shine it some and leave the patina and etching completely intact. Same for the scales then polish them with a paper towel and metal polish.

    You will end with a clean razor with a nice patina, and you can decide if you want to go further with the polished route or leave it as it is and hone it.

    I do like a razor with character, looks like you may have one there.
    This is a good method if you don't mind the smell of WD40. For me, I don't like the stuff. It does a good job of getting goop and glue off I'll give it that. I probably wouldn't use the steel wool on the scales but otherwise steel wool and oil are a good combination. Paper towels and the popsicle stick are a good trick but, I'd prefer a cotton or cheese cloth rag over the stick. There can be an advantage in some cases were paper towel or news paper serve as a mild abrasive especially when coupled with some sort of polish, metal, rubing compond or toothpaste on composit, plastic or horn. Polishing the metal may be a good use of that green goop some put on strops. It is abrasive. All in all I like the the quoted method. I just wanted to caviat for the less experienced who may like to have some veriety or alternatives. At least no one has been pushing the use of those dremel tools. They have a use, for something.

    Respectfully

    Chasmo

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    If you wouldn't mind my jumping in here (apologies if this is considered rude), I too just started work cleaning up my first, which happens to be a TR Cadman (and not as fancy as the OP). Does anyone have an idea whether there is a chemical that can be used to clean the stamped letters without having to sand down and lose the depth? When I was taking off the rust, I already went a little far on some of the letters. imgur: the simple image sharer Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hubris2 View Post
    If you wouldn't mind my jumping in here (apologies if this is considered rude), I too just started work cleaning up my first, which happens to be a TR Cadman (and not as fancy as the OP). Does anyone have an idea whether there is a chemical that can be used to clean the stamped letters without having to sand down and lose the depth? When I was taking off the rust, I already went a little far on some of the letters. imgur: the simple image sharer Thanks.
    I wouldn't see it as rude at all. What you are asking is along the lines of what this thread is talking about. And, I never thought of cleaning out the stamped lettering beyond what a tooth brush and hot soapy water can do. That way it leaves a contrast and you're not destroying the stamp. That is just my opinion of course.

    Regards

    Chasmo

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    Scheerlijk Laurens's Avatar
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    I've tried scraping inside the letters with the point of a knife. It's tedious and cannot completely clean it, but it's a start.
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  6. #26
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    For cleaning the etching on the blade, stampings on the tang and jimps, I use a brass brush, tooth brush type (paint dept Home Depot) with the WD40 then some metal polish to remove the rust and gunk.

    A spray down with Simple Green or 409 type cleaner will remove the WD40 and the smell from the blade and scales.

    You can heat the blade with hot water, wipe off then with a Q-tip apply white vinegar on the stamps and etch. It will darken the lettering, remove excess darkening on the blade with ooo or oooo steel wool, don’t wait too long or it becomes difficult to remove. If you want it darker hit it again. Simple Green will remove the vinegar smell.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:

    nonick (02-06-2014)

  8. #27
    Senior Member nonick's Avatar
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    Little sanding jig I whipped up.
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  9. #28
    Senior Member nonick's Avatar
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    Default Beginning to restore

    Started work on the blade this afternoon. The 240 and WD40 has got most of the worst off. Bunnings had no idea what a crocus cloth was so wet'n'dry it is!

    Should I keep going with the 240 further?
    where the hinge is I cut little strips of sand paper.

    I have scuffed the scales slightly when sanding will that come out with a polish?

    How is best to use the Autosol? Just rub with a cloth and rub off turtle wax style?
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    Last edited by nonick; 02-08-2014 at 08:41 AM.
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  10. #29
    Scheerlijk Laurens's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nonick View Post
    Started work on the blade this afternoon. The 240 and WD40 has got most of the worst off. Bunnings had no idea what a crocus cloth was so wet'n'dry it is!

    Should I keep going with the 240 further?
    where the hinge is I cut little strips of sand paper.

    I have scuffed the scales slightly when sanding will that come out with a polish?

    How is best to use the Autosol? Just rub with a cloth and rub off turtle wax style?
    That's starting to look good Whether you go on with the 240 depends on how badly you want the last little stains to disappear vs how badly you want that great etching to be left intact. If you're careful, you can sand the spots at the toe a bit more without touching the etching, but there's a change it will leave the finish uneven. If it were mine, I'd move on up the grits and give it a nice polish, leaving the last patina intact.

    As for the scales you hit, just polish won't take out the scratches. Try some fine sandpaper, start in the range of 600-1000 and move up to the highest grit you have, then polish. Of course, do this when the blade is at the same sandpaper grit, or you'll be going backward and forward everytime you slip up.
    I want a lather whip

  11. #30
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    I'd definitely go to a finer grit. Do what you can to get rid of the 240 marks without washing out your etching. I'd avoid the hinge area and not worry about the steel between the scales you cannot get to easily. When you get to the 800 to 1200 range on the steel use that polish and your abrasive in conjunction. The by product thereof will become black and messy pretty quickly. Laurens is correct in following your grit range on the scales to get rid of the damage done by the more coarse abrasive. You are working this project assembled so you'll have to be careful of the collateral damage and work both equally. Just be careful not to remove too much scale material, only that amount necessary to clean it up in a very careful manner. You should pretty quickly get to the point where you can make your final progress with the polish and a rag. At that point a good washing with hot soap and water, a hone, strop and shave will be your reward.

    You're doing fine. Stick with it and take it slowly, methodical.

    Regards

    Chasmo

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