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Thread: Should I work on this TR Cadman?
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02-08-2014, 05:18 PM #31
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
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- Phoenix
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- 312
Thanked: 40Hubris2,
What grit sandpaper did you use? I never use anything lower than 220 when sanding a razor unless I need to clean up deep pitting. For the stamped letters (as well as the rest of the razor), I find that using 220 and then progressively going up (220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, etc) cleans up the razor well. The trick is that on each higher grit of sandpaper, you "erase" most/all of the scratches that you had created on the previous grit. The higher grits scratch less. Once your work you way up, the stamped letters should be clean with the scratches mostly all removed. Also make sure that you use a combination of horizontal, vertical, and circular swirls when sanding. This makes the scratches blur together and be much less noticeable to the eye.
I used this technique on my own TR Cadman to good effect. However, I did sand up to the 12,000 grit (using micro mesh pads). The Bengall letters are clean but not scratched.
One trick I like to use for cleaning up grime is to use sandpaper with a dab of metal polish. I use Brasso. I am not sure what is available in New Zealand. The polish and sandpaper work together to get a slightly deeper clean of tarnish.
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02-08-2014, 05:59 PM #32
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
- Location
- Tennessee
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- 128
Thanked: 24Hey Nonick,
I was just admiring your handy work in your pictures again. That sure is a really nice unveiling of a treasure. It truly does look nice especially in a rustic old fashioned way, definitely with character. The tang looks to be of the oval verity rather than the sharp cornered versions. You are going to love that when you put it on the strop. I have an Engles like that and it strops like it is in a stropping machine. You're going to be proud of that razor, every time you shave with it. I'd work to clean up the 240 scratches with progressively finer abrasives until you can go to the polishing method I mentioned earlier and be done with it.
Keep us posted.
Chasmo
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The Following User Says Thank You to Chasmo For This Useful Post:
nonick (02-09-2014)
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02-08-2014, 07:35 PM #33The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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02-09-2014, 10:44 AM #34
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02-09-2014, 10:54 AM #35
Nearly done?
Well I worked up the grits and finished with the Autosol. Wow does that stuff make things shine?! It turned from a razor into a mirror.
There are still a few faint scratch marks from sanding.
The hinge pin is a tiny bit loose. When you close it there's enough play that the razor can catch the scales just as it closes. Is this normal? Would re pinning the hinge be a big job? Maybe I should just be careful.
Here are some pictures
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02-09-2014, 02:22 PM #36
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
- Location
- Tennessee
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- 128
Thanked: 24[QUOTE=nonick;1288385]Well I worked up the grits and finished with the Autosol. Wow does that stuff make things shine?! It turned from a razor into a mirror.
There are still a few faint scratch marks from sanding.
The hinge pin is a tiny bit loose. When you close it there's enough play that the razor can catch the scales just as it closes. Is this normal? Would re pinning the hinge be a big job? Maybe I should just be careful.
/QUOTE]
Well done Partner! You should be happy with those results. No, it isn't normal that the hinge pin is lose. What I would do first is to try to tightening up the existing pin to keep it original. What I don't know is do you have experience at peening? This is a delicate task, yep with a hammer, delicate....I know, but it is. My preference is for a cross peen or machinist's ball peen in the 2 ounce size and a flat hard, un-movable object such as an anvil. The anvil I use is only about 8 pounds but, it does a really good job. The flat of a heavy vice would suffice as well. I'll tell you how it's done and you decide if you want to proceed.
You must take extreme caution here because you can crack or break your scales.
Perhaps you should practice some peening (mushrooming) first. If you have a piece of brass rod lets practice with that if not use a regular nail. Flatten one end of the pin or nail and lock it in the vice. With your 2oz hammer tap around the outer circumference in a downward slightly glancing fashion. Look closely at what you are doing as you go so you'll learn how the metal reacts as it is being reformed. Go ahead and play with it. Peen a little umbrella then hammer it straight down a little and spread the umbrella even more. Get another one and place a steel washer over it and peen the nail down so the washer would become a fastener much like your razor's hinge pin is. You gain confidence playing in this fashion and what can you hurt in so doing? Once you get your courage up and want to go for the razor scale back the pressure on the hammer to a careful and gentle tapping.
I start with the razor closed. Lay one end of the hinge pin on the anvil, roll it around until you are sure you are point on with no scale touching the anvil. If you have a small tube that will rest on the pin's washer and allow the pin inside or a slightly opened pair of pliers use them to push down on the washer. This effort hopefully will take up any slack in the hinge. Then use the flat side of your 2oz hammer to gently peen the head of the hinge pin to tighten it. Go slowly and only a little at a time, I did mention to go slow and gently didn't I? If I didn't mention it please do go slow and gently. Just a couple gentle taps and see if you made any progress. Try again and don't be tempted to graduate to a full out whacking. Just tap, tap, tap to move the metal around to tightening up the hinge and not break your scales. Also, be mindful to hold the scales parallel to each other and not allow them to misalign. You'll be done when they are slightly snug, not tight, and close on center.
You will go slow and carefully won't you?
Regards
Chasmo
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The Following User Says Thank You to Chasmo For This Useful Post:
deepweeds (02-09-2014)
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02-09-2014, 11:01 PM #37
It's not difficult to repin but as already mentioned requires care. Here's a link to the library if you choose to have a go:
Un-pinning and re-pinning a razor - Straight Razor Place Library
Having handled that razor I would say the hinge pin is bent. You will not be able to tighten the closing point without increasing the friction at the fully open point without a new straight pin.The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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02-24-2014, 10:55 AM #38
Finished!!
Thanks everyone for their help and advice.
I sent the razor to Oz to hone and he also repined it and polished the scales and tang while he had the blade out.
Os I'm very happy with your work and recommend you to anyone in Australia for honing/restoration! He did a particularly nice job of polishing the scales where the hinge pin was. It looked like someone bashed it with a meat tenderiser to tighten the hinge some time.
So now it has a shiny sharp blade, tight pins and glossy scales I'm set to shave tomorrow!! With a rego sticker remover! It's even more satisfying than buying something.
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02-24-2014, 12:20 PM #39
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
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- Tennessee
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Thanked: 24That looks like it'll turn into an old friend pretty quick. Not only is it a nice looking razor you also ahve a story to go with it.
Well done.
Chasmo
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02-24-2014, 11:02 PM #40
Good pics Nick. Don't cut your ear off with that thing.
The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.