Thread: Should I work on this TR Cadman?

Originally Posted by Hubris2

If you wouldn't mind my jumping in here (apologies if this is considered rude), I too just started work cleaning up my first, which happens to be a TR Cadman (and not as fancy as the OP). Does anyone have an idea whether there is a chemical that can be used to clean the stamped letters without having to sand down and lose the depth? When I was taking off the rust, I already went a little far on some of the letters. imgur: the simple image sharer Thanks.

I wouldn't see it as rude at all. What you are asking is along the lines of what this thread is talking about. And, I never thought of cleaning out the stamped lettering beyond what a tooth brush and hot soapy water can do. That way it leaves a contrast and you're not destroying the stamp. That is just my opinion of course.

Regards

Chasmo

I've tried scraping inside the letters with the point of a knife. It's tedious and cannot completely clean it, but it's a start.

For cleaning the etching on the blade, stampings on the tang and jimps, I use a brass brush, tooth brush type (paint dept Home Depot) with the WD40 then some metal polish to remove the rust and gunk.

A spray down with Simple Green or 409 type cleaner will remove the WD40 and the smell from the blade and scales.

You can heat the blade with hot water, wipe off then with a Q-tip apply white vinegar on the stamps and etch. It will darken the lettering, remove excess darkening on the blade with ooo or oooo steel wool, don’t wait too long or it becomes difficult to remove. If you want it darker hit it again. Simple Green will remove the vinegar smell.

Little sanding jig I whipped up.

Started work on the blade this afternoon. The 240 and WD40 has got most of the worst off. Bunnings had no idea what a crocus cloth was so wet'n'dry it is!

Should I keep going with the 240 further?
where the hinge is I cut little strips of sand paper.

I have scuffed the scales slightly when sanding will that come out with a polish?

How is best to use the Autosol? Just rub with a cloth and rub off turtle wax style?

Originally Posted by nonick

Started work on the blade this afternoon. The 240 and WD40 has got most of the worst off. Bunnings had no idea what a crocus cloth was so wet'n'dry it is!

Should I keep going with the 240 further?
where the hinge is I cut little strips of sand paper.

I have scuffed the scales slightly when sanding will that come out with a polish?

How is best to use the Autosol? Just rub with a cloth and rub off turtle wax style?

That's starting to look good Whether you go on with the 240 depends on how badly you want the last little stains to disappear vs how badly you want that great etching to be left intact. If you're careful, you can sand the spots at the toe a bit more without touching the etching, but there's a change it will leave the finish uneven. If it were mine, I'd move on up the grits and give it a nice polish, leaving the last patina intact.

As for the scales you hit, just polish won't take out the scratches. Try some fine sandpaper, start in the range of 600-1000 and move up to the highest grit you have, then polish. Of course, do this when the blade is at the same sandpaper grit, or you'll be going backward and forward everytime you slip up.

I'd definitely go to a finer grit. Do what you can to get rid of the 240 marks without washing out your etching. I'd avoid the hinge area and not worry about the steel between the scales you cannot get to easily. When you get to the 800 to 1200 range on the steel use that polish and your abrasive in conjunction. The by product thereof will become black and messy pretty quickly. Laurens is correct in following your grit range on the scales to get rid of the damage done by the more coarse abrasive. You are working this project assembled so you'll have to be careful of the collateral damage and work both equally. Just be careful not to remove too much scale material, only that amount necessary to clean it up in a very careful manner. You should pretty quickly get to the point where you can make your final progress with the polish and a rag. At that point a good washing with hot soap and water, a hone, strop and shave will be your reward.

You're doing fine. Stick with it and take it slowly, methodical.

Regards

Chasmo

Originally Posted by nonick

Started work on the blade this afternoon. The 240 and WD40 has got most of the worst off. Bunnings had no idea what a crocus cloth was so wet'n'dry it is!

Should I keep going with the 240 further?
where the hinge is I cut little strips of sand paper.

I have scuffed the scales slightly when sanding will that come out with a polish?

How is best to use the Autosol? Just rub with a cloth and rub off turtle wax style?

Bunnings often have no idea.
As advised ,move to 400 now & progressively polish the scale scuffs as you go.
Rub the Autosol well in & polish off till cloth comes clean. Watch your fingers !

Well I worked up the grits and finished with the Autosol. Wow does that stuff make things shine?! It turned from a razor into a mirror.

There are still a few faint scratch marks from sanding.


The hinge pin is a tiny bit loose. When you close it there's enough play that the razor can catch the scales just as it closes. Is this normal? Would re pinning the hinge be a big job? Maybe I should just be careful.

Here are some pictures