Thread: Pivot Pin hole stretched?

Everything about this razor looks great; blade, scales, pins and washers. I wouldn't change anything, a little slippage is just part of its antique authenticity and charm.

At least to me, an elongated Pivot hole is a defect so I always repair them.
My thinking Is that the brass pin acts as a lap against the Iron oxide and wears the steel,I may be wrong here.
I do not like having a blade snap back and fourth and on a re-scale,if left like that,one has take it under consideration when making the wedge.
JMOs

Sleeving works great if it fits, without movement. You could also try filling the hole with high grade hard epoxy, and drill a new hole through it. Beware, some epoxies bond well to steel, others do not. I have use Gorilla epoxy with a variety of metals, its amazing.

What a rusty pivot hole looks like:



The hole is packed with rust, there is a small chunk to the lower right of the hole.

Originally Posted by Hart

What a rusty pivot hole looks like:



The hole is packed with rust, there is a small chunk to the lower right of the hole.

Thats ugly,by the time you get all that rust out of there you may need a 1/4in. pin

If you want to go quick and easy and you dont really need any manufacturing . Slide a stainless steel pop rivet in the pivot pin hole. Actually use a pop rivet tool and swell the pop in the hole while allowing the tool to cut the mandrel of then. Once the rivet is set sand off the rivet head and any mushroom that the mandrel swelled and presto. Laugh if you will it works and works quite effectively. I have Tom to thank for that brilliant idea. (You evil madman). The fact that it swells in all the nooks and crannies usually keeps it from moving out.
Then theres the second option which I has been already said a carbide endmill to bore a clean hole and a engine lathe to turn a shiny new bushing.

I do both depending how lazy I am that day.

I just noticed the pivot hole on a razor I was working on and it is elongated, but not from rusting and wear. You can see the indentation on one side where it was punched out. The picture is pretty bad, but I think you can see it. The hole isn't that bad, but there is a little bit of movement so I would probably sleeve it.

I used a ink pens plastic tube when I had this problem.

All the badly miss-shapen pin holes i've seen so far, were also quite "cratery" and obviously the product of many years of a drop of water here and a drop of water there. I have no problem with a square-ish punched hole, but i have a huge problem with a worn-the-freak-wonky hole that allows the blade to shift back and forth excessively or won't snug up for safe stropping.

And since i do believe that filling the hole with epoxy and drilling will vastly reduce the surfaces where water can collect and hide and create further damage. That's the way i prefer to fix them. It does require more time than bushing, but also allows me to offset the blade as much as possible (within the crater) to counter any scale shrinkage.

But most of the time i can get a pin to snug up without ever looking inside.

Seeing how funky a hole can get helps a fella (this one) be diligent about keeping the pivot dry and oiled, but we can't be perfect.

Well, i finally was able to get all the supplies needed. Took her apart and get her back together with a brass sleeve. Thanks for all of the suggestions, and details on the history. It may be like that on purpose, but if they had the means to make it to tighter tolerances, they would have. Now shes nice and tight. Also it did not have any washers in between the scales and blade, so i put them on there. Could not be more impressed, and it was my first unpinning/pinning. I am currently doing this razors bigger brother, a 7/8 version with custom lava flow kirinite scales. its almost done and looks amazing.