Thread: Best procedure to 're-round' the pivot hole using brass sleeve insert?

Fitting tubing and or solid rod is as above.

If the tubing deforms or you use solid rod to plug the hole, then consider using a few thousandths undersized drill bit for the pin and an exact size reamer to finish a perfectly round hole for the pivot pin. Most drill bits produce a triangular hole that might bind on rotation.

Example: 1/8 drill = 0.125, drill 0.120 and ream to 0.125. If you hole is perpendicular the pivot should track straight down the middle of the scale like you want. More work but my OCD is particularly active today.

Alright so I considered all of your advice and decided to drill anyways. I think if the situation was different, I would not have drilled the tang. Here is why: The amount of metal I ended up needing to remove was so insignificant, but now i can fit the next size of tubing with virtually no play (which this razor obviously had a considerable amount of, and the edge of the blade kept hitting the scales): Here are some pictures to show:



Also I would like to say that in my original post I said that i was going to drill to 1/4 inch, and if you have not inferred already I meant 1/8 inch

Oh Good! I was wondering about that!

Another, easier approach perhaps is to insert a small pice of solid brass rod, peen it, file it, and then drill a hole through it.

Originally Posted by Bruno

Another, easier approach perhaps is to insert a small pice of solid brass rod, peen it, file it, and then drill a hole through it.

Would this be better than using a hardened epoxy with a hole? Or is it mainly preference?

I have a theory on those oversized holes in tangs. Lots, if not most, old Sheffies used no washers between scales and tang. As the razor is opened, the angled tang is swung around and the forces from it are applied to the scales in different places throughout the entire sweep of motion. A larger hole, regardless of shape, allows the blade to 'slip' to even out this pressure through the motion keeping the same pressure whatever the position is. I only bush a pivot when it is dictated by blade-to-wedge clearance. I figure they knew what they were doing with those big holes!

Originally Posted by sharptonn

I have a theory on those oversized holes in tangs. Lots, if not most, old Sheffies used no washers between scales and tang. As the razor is opened, the angled tang is swung around and the forces from it are applied to the scales in different places throughout the entire sweep of motion. A larger hole, regardless of shape, allows the blade to 'slip' to even out this pressure through the motion keeping the same pressure whatever the position is. I only bush a pivot when it is dictated by blade-to-wedge clearance. I figure they knew what they were doing with those big holes!

Back in they day, the razor makers were, IMO cranking out razors that may have cost $1, probebly quik and dirty work.
Punching a wierd shaped hole was maybe the norm,nobody cared.
But today we have the abilitys to make a perfect hole for a round pin,is only sound mechanics.
Doing a resto on a fine blade without sound mechanics (the proper pin and pivot hole, properly sized) is just plain wrong JMO

Originally Posted by rvrboy17

Would this be better than using a hardened epoxy with a hole? Or is it mainly preference?

Epoxy will work, just remember that if you lay the tang down flat, your 90° drill press won't be going through the tang at 90° on many razors due to the sides of the tang not being parallel. I used to epoxy mine when I needed to fill a large hole, but have not done so for quite a while. No particular reason other than having some tubing lying around. I suspect another part of the reason was me having doubts about how durable the epoxy would be in the long run, but I suspect they will all long outlive me.

Originally Posted by Cangooner

Epoxy will work, just remember that if you lay the tang down flat, your 90° drill press won't be going through the tang at 90° on many razors due to the sides of the tang not being parallel. I used to epoxy mine when I needed to fill a large hole, but have not done so for quite a while. No particular reason other than having some tubing lying around. I suspect another part of the reason was me having doubts about how durable the epoxy would be in the long run, but I suspect they will all long outlive me.

Im still making the scales of my first restore. I haven't looked closely at the tang enough yet to notice the angle. So by doing the brass tube, it, in theory, retains the angle... Assuming you don't have to drill the hole out to fit the tube. Thanks!