Chipped dubl duck satin edge.

**SailorJ** · 05-13-2014, 10:46 PM

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Antique shop was asking $38... Got me down to $10

I bought it for the scales but decided I might give the blade a shot before calling it quits.

The question I have is what should I do to try and keep the angles proportional. Would you bread knife at a 45 or hone flat till kingdom come? Or is there yet another rout you would take?

Cheers,
Julian

**JSmith1983** · 05-13-2014, 10:56 PM

I think breadknifing at a 45 would be alot faster than just honing it flat till the chips were gone. Once you get the chips to where you can barely see them is when I would start honing flat. Just remember that you are going to have to do some work on the stabilizers. Is there a crack in the chip closest to the heel? If there is looks like you might have to remove 1/3 of the blade and might go past the belly. I never had to do that so I don't know how the razor would hone or shave with the belly gone. Not sure if it would be like a razor without a belly or something different since it was ground with one. I am assuming it has a belly from the look of the blade. I could just be a reflection though. Hopefully someone with more experience with that will come along. It is a shame doesn't look like the razor has seen much use either before the chips.

**RezDog** · 05-13-2014, 10:58 PM

check
gssixgun Restoration Breadknifing part 1.wmv - YouTube

**SailorJ** · 05-13-2014, 11:51 PM

Thank you both! I will have a go at it tonight. It is indeed a bellied razor, the chip is about 1/8" into the blade and leaving a little less than an 1/8" of blade before the middle of the belly. no cracks thankfully.

If a blade is already hollow ground & bellied is it still possible to do a regrind?

**Chevhead** · 05-14-2014, 02:01 AM

Look like it might turn out okay to me.

DEFINITELY do the 45 breadknife!

See what it looks like after the chips are gone.

**SailorJ** · 05-14-2014, 09:32 AM

Took the material down past the chips, hit it with some 3m polish starting to look a lot better Name: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400059901.449449.jpg
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Name: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400059901.449449.jpg
Views: 296
Size: 49.9 KB

**SailorJ** · 05-16-2014, 08:29 AM

Just got in a coti and thuri ordered off of a member here, thank you Pieter! Decided that the dubl duck would be the first to work on. Set the bevel on a 1k choss then used the dilucot method to bring the blade through and finished on the thuri. At this point it cut hair very easily but I think there is much to learn about using both of these stones, after a strop on crox and leather its among the sharpest edges I have in my rotation.

A truly nice shave off of the duck! Just wondering if the edge doesn't pop hairs easily until after the crox does that mean that I hadn't used the stones to their fullest?

anyhow I feel incredibly lucky to have acquired this razor for $10

cheers folks!

**Magpie** · 05-17-2014, 06:25 AM

Myself, I don't usually go by hair popping. But most people will say that you should have been able to do so before the CrOx To me the only real test is on the face. And an excellent job there. you have the nod for "Patience Saint" of the year.

**Magpie** · 05-17-2014, 06:49 AM

And just as a word of caution.... Those clear DD scales are infamous for self destructing and taking the steel from sparkling shine to rusted heap of scrap. Keep it as dry as possible and out of sunlight. If you start getting rust freckles you might consider removing the blade from the scales and have one of the pro guys transfer the inlays to a new set of scales.

**onimaru55** · 05-17-2014, 07:16 AM

Originally Posted by SailorJ

Took the material down past the chips, hit it with some 3m polish starting to look a lot better Name: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400059901.449449.jpg
Views: 296
Size: 49.9 KB

How thick is that stabiliser at the heel ?
The risk is that it will put all the honing pressure towards the toe.
In cases like that I would grind the stabiliser bringing the heel further forward

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