Hi Noxa,
'Glad others chimed in.
The most recent photos are a dramatic improvement - in profile - not just 'cause its shiny. It looks like bringing that shoulder up further will be needed. You mentioned thinning it out so it rides the stone flat. Bringing the shoulder up higher would likely make that unnecessary. By the time a bevel is well established - you might be back to riding the shoulder if it doesn't come up higher.

Something to keep in the back of the mind when setting the bevel and honing - the buffers can make the job a bit more work. If it gives you trouble, don't hesitate to (as Glen counseled me) to 'kill the edge' and establish the bevel again. This amounts to just running the edge over the side of the stone or rim of a glass to collapse the edge. The purpose is to get through weak/old/spotty steel to clean steel that takes a good bevel & makes for easier honing for the rest of the progression. If initial bevel set is good, ignore the above.

Being a heavy grind (I'm particularly fond of them), be prepared that it'll take some time. 'Possibly more than your patience can endure in a single setting. The wedge has to have alot of metal moved around. I also one who uses tape - 2 layers when honing a wedge, and when setting the bevel, I'll often use 3 or more and work it on the DMT 325 until it gives a good TNT. Then I'll strip off a layer & hit the bevel setter until it gives at least a modest shaving of arm hair at skin level. At that point, I'm down to 2 layers, still on the bevel setter and refining the bevel until it lops hair rather effortlessly at skin level.

That process is usually more than the surface of your bevel setter can do without refreshing slurry or breaking through any glaze created by so much work. Don't be surprised or afraid to refresh the surface of the stone.

By the time you're done, you'll have done alot of work, but learned ALOT. That's at least as valuable as having another blade in the drawer. 'Hope it goes well. Pls let us know how it goes.