Thread: George Wostenholm celebrated IXL 7/8 restore

Hi gents.
I'm working on an1850s big blade I received without scales.
I've made a one piece scale from tulipwood as I don't have any red handled razors.
good enough reason for me. :-)
problem is there is a slight twist to the shank that must be from forge as its too thick a blade to have been bent when in use, and when I test fit it in the scale it hits the side unless I put a washer on the inside, but only on one side. It's also got the most acute taper to its tang length from fat at the blade to really thin at the tip of the tail. So that could be a contributing factor as well.
the scale is still slightly thicker on one side as I tried to sand the inside profile to match the wedge shape of the shank.
so my question,, would you continue to match up the halves of the scale with sanding or use uneven numbers of washers on either side? Don't want to remove too much wood as its a bitch to put back. It looks crooked, Straight out, but lines up balls straight with the one washer installed when closing..

Thanks all.
cheers

Nice big blade. I think that the maximum satisfaction would come from getting the scales exactly right for the razor. If one thickness of washer will fix the problem then you are very close and a small amount of patience will give you the greater satisfaction. when we restore in theory we only need to please our own eyes.

+1 put the extra time in and sand the pivot to suit until you are happy
I have a str8 with a covered & curved tang in the workshop to clean up eventually, that fits perfect when closed but has about a good 1/4" or so offset when fully open still trying to work out how they made it fit

Are your scale pin holes perfectly perpendicular ? Have you checked the warp by removing the blade from the scales,placing them on a flat surface and by putting firm finger pressure on the blade pin hole ,check the difference in the distance of the tip from the flat surface when you flip the blade ? You can "move" the centering by sanding the inside surface above the pin on one side and below the pin on the other scale interior. Changing the wedge can also affect centering on occasion .You could just live with it .Three fingers of scotch. All the preceding are merely suggestions and not to be taken literally .

+1 to taking my time. What I meant was, if I remove more scale material would the curve get worse or better. Moot point now as I have kept sanding away matching up the halve evenly and trying to remove as much as I can safely remove, figure if I can keep it off those sides as it closes. That will help.
Wirm, the pivot hole is sure square to my eye, and when pressing the blade on its side as you suggested, thats when I could really notice the blade bias.
It touches to the right s it closes. Tang closet to you.


Your point about moving the centering had me looking closer at my hole, and its pretty elongated. If I fill that and re drill to 1/16 square again, that might help as well.
Appreciate the feedback gents, this is a work in progress so I'm not rushing things. Just working away..
Cheers

When I know my razor is way off like that my entire process of fitting my scales is different, that being said I have never made a set of one piece scale and I am uncertain how to overcome it easily, besides making your scales and pivot hole a little off of straight but true to your razor.

It's a challenge Shawn, for sure.
This is my third set of 1 pc scales (that didnt break) and I just like the simple line to them. I was reading up on one of gssixgun's threads a while back and just dug the look. Then the old greaves i was given by phrank gave me a vintage one to really check out, and i was hooked. I will be making some horn scales in the traditional 2 pc format with some goodies I got from robsbitts but for now, this one is the project.
I've tonight removed a lot more side wood from the insides up closer to the pivot and its improving the throw. I'm thinking if I can remove as much wood as safe, and re drill that pivot hole on a slight bias to account for the warp, that might do it..
More to follow.
Thx..

Just an idea that may work with moving the hole. You could enlarge the hole at the same time and insert a metal bushing of sorts. It would allow you a little flexibility in the hole location and fill in the void at the same time. Perhaps a little piece of tubing with a 1/16" ID.

Mike, if all else fails it is possible to straighten the tang with a technique that Charlie Lewis uses it involves heat paste,a propane torch and a vise.
The paste is available on Amazon for about 10 bucks.
Bending Tang On A Straight Razor - YouTube