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Thread: Help with arcylic scales

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    Default Help with arcylic scales

    Going Morning SRP.

    I am a newbie at trying to make some custom arcylic material for scaled for a straight razor. “ Please note I will be just making the material not cutting and shaping the scales at this time because I do not have any equiptment to do so”

    So here is my question for the more expierneced hobbiests that worked with arclyic scales. I want to do something different on my scales and I was doing some searching on the web on custom arcylic scales and found this website. http://pastrana.fr

    This is what I would like to do. Something like this. Joining some different color arcylic sheets together side by side to make up a pattern that I like. Not sure how he does it but it looks like they are welded side by side.

    So yesterday I bought some sheets of different color arcylic sheets that I liked and bought some weld on #4 and also weld on #16 in a tube. And also a heavy duty plasticutter to cut the material.

    I tried to do some reasearch on the web to see how I could “WELD” the two pieces of arcylic sheets side by side? Should I cut them and then weld them together using the weld on #4 or using the weld on #16. this is where i do not know what product to use.

    After I cut the arclyic sheets to size is there any prep work I should do to the sides of the sheets that I need to weld together like sanding them or something else to prep them before welding the sheets together.

    So I was thinking usually from what I read on the web to make razor scales you would need around a 1.5 inch by 6 inch sheet of arcylic so I was thinking depending on the shape of the scales I would do a 3inch wide by 8 inch long piece just to play it on the safe side.

    If you look at the website this is the vision that I am after. A nice modern looking scales on a vintage blade. I currently want to restore 4 of my grandfathers straight razors. And I wanted to at least try to make the material for the scales. and of course i will not copy his style. but i would make up my own style. Something to do to pass time at home as a small hobby.

    So any help would be greatly aprreciated.

    Vinnie Onorato

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    When welding acrylic the edges to be joined need to be smooth and flush for best results.
    Weld-On # 3 Fastest Setting. Water-Thin. Fast evaporation. Will leave markoff if spilled. Glue for acrylic sheets. Acrylic to Acrylic. Polycarbonate to Polycarbonate. Not for beginners.
    Weld On # 4 Fast Setting. Water-Thin. Fast evaporation. Acrylic to Acrylic. Polycarbonate to Polycarbonate. Best for most applications of these materials.
    Weld On #16 Fast Setting. Syrupy in consistency. Skins over fast but slower setting. Will leave a mess if spilled. Acrylic to Acrylic. Polycarbonate to Polycarbonate. ABS to Acrylic. Multi-purpose. Good for sealing tiny gaps and water-proofing small tanks.
    Weld-On #10 2 part adhesive - High strength. For bonding dissimilar materials. Not clear.
    Weld On #40 2 part CLEAR adhesive - Highest strength adhesive for acrylics. This is used in making large aquariums, tanks, and glueing thick pieces of Plexiglas. It cures perfectly clear. Removing bubbles after mixing requires patience and practice.
    If I were going to do this I would use 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick acrylic, cut your blocks to the size then glue making the slabs. then using a band saw cut the slabs to make your scales. Trying to glue 1/8 " thick acrylic is going to be tricky and hard to do.
    Doing it with out any air pockets or hazing takes practice.
    Hope this helps.
    V/R
    Tim

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    Thanks for the Response "oldblades" my first mistake that i ordered 1/8 material. the reason for it most of the colored ones that i saw only come in 1/8. i got the 1/8 size to play around with to see what cement would work better. do you think i should use the weld on #4 vs the weld on #16?

    should i also try to sand the sides down with fine grit sandpaper?

    thanks again

    Vinnie

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    Senior Member decraew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldblades View Post
    If I were going to do this I would use 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick acrylic, cut your blocks to the size then glue making the slabs. then using a band saw cut the slabs to make your scales.
    Yup, good thinking !

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    Thanks for the replies. and it does make sense. But trying to find the colored sheets in that thickness is not working out for me. anybody know where to buy some on the web?

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    Jon

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    I usually use the 1/4" thick stuff in 12" by 12" and Weld on #16. I like having the extra time to get clamps on sections.
    Once everything is glued up and dried, I cut the profile as close I can with a band saw. Then I rasp/file to almost the final profile dimensions. Then I sand to almost final thickness. Then I plastic polish the whole thing to final dimension. Lastly, a whole lot of buffing.
    onorato likes this.
    Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead - Charles Bukowski

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    thanks for the reply Criswilson10....that helps me out. got any pic's ?

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    I never have bothered to take pictures of it and have never made razor scales that way - just artsy stuff. Except for the glue, it is the same way that you edge glue wood and a google search for that should yield you some videos with examples and how to set the clamps.
    Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead - Charles Bukowski

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    The link that Thisisclog gave you has some videos on gluing etc. ( I didn't look at them ) I was going to give this a whirl myself but I have other projects piled up right now.

    Smooth tight fitting joints will give you the best looking finished product. If you overlap the pieces and cut both sides at the same time your going to get very close to a tight fit.
    Maybe try some easy shapes and joints first just to see what your in for.

    Your making me want to drop what I have going and try this :<0) I have all the stuff.
    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.

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