Thread: First razor restore project

Thanks guys, especially the video. It showed me that not one step did I do correctly. This is encouraging because I can only get better. NO WAY I can do a worse job in the future. Here are some pictures of my finished job. The photo's aren't the best.

Best pin side.


Other pin side. It's not as clear in the photo but you can see a little bit of the hole in the scale. I think I drilled the hole a little bigger than needed as well as the pin bending enlarged the hole a little.


This is my favorite. Betcha I'm the only one who can do a job just like this.


Here is a picture of the razor as is. The only thing I'm happy about is since the blade is only 2.5" long I can remove it, drill a new hole and re-shape the pivot end of the handle. There's plenty of extra handle material. Therefore I can consider this a learning experience and go on. Another thing I did wrong was I used the flat side of the hammer head. In the video he uses the ball end. Live-n-learn. I also bought a 12 oz. hammer. Maybe I should get a lighter one. I only got a new hammer because all of mine (no ball peen) have marred surfaces and I read that could transfer the scratches to the pin. I think I bought the lightes hammer at Lowe's. Is a lighter one recommended or should I just get used to the one I bought.


Is there a more desirable pin material for a newbie? Something softer perhaps for less hammering? OTOH, softer would mean more result from each tap so one little mistake would mean more damage than with a harder pin. Also, what are some of the better sites to buy razor part materials? I got this set of scales which came with the pin and washers from Maggard Razors. Any others out there you guys recommend? Thanks for any help.

Jack
PS
Got pictures of my grandson Jackson last night. Here is one. I won't put up any more because I know how terrible it is to be bombarded with family pics. Sorry about this one. Still excited. We got a bunch of great shots. We are making everyone else look at them also.

I struggled using 'The lightest hammer' that I could find locally. Then my good friend Glen said "Buy a chasing hammer, preferably with the rounded face".

Here's one;

Chasing Hammer 1” Domed Face Jewelry Metalwork Economy Crafts Hammer Jewelers | eBay

It might make all of the difference in the world. It sure did for me

From looking at the pic for the end view of the pivot I would guess that the pin did bend and that's what's causing the V. Un-pin it and try again, this time think of 'Tap, Tap, Tap' not TAP, TAP, TAP.

Go slow, take your time, remember how Charlie was slowly rounding the pin by going round and round. Glen showed the same thing.

I hope this has been of some help

Originally Posted by cudarunner

I struggled using 'The lightest hammer' that I could find locally. Then my good friend Glen said "Buy a chasing hammer, preferably with the rounded face".

Here's one;

Chasing Hammer 1” Domed Face Jewelry Metalwork Economy Crafts Hammer Jewelers | eBay

It might make all of the difference in the world. It sure did for me

From looking at the pic for the end view of the pivot I would guess that the pin did bend and that's what's causing the V. Un-pin it and try again, this time think of 'Tap, Tap, Tap' not TAP, TAP, TAP.

Go slow, take your time, remember how Charlie was slowly rounding the pin by going round and round. Glen showed the same thing.

I hope this has been of some help

I was watching a lumberjack contest on tv once and they were hammering nails into the end of a log. Everyone would use one tap to get the nail set then get fingers out of the way and hammer it in. One guy consistently would tap the nail into the wood then with ONE more strike he'd have the head of the nail flush with the wood. The other contestants were obviously amazed as was I. I take it this is not the method to peen razor pins. I ordered that hammer so in a few days I'll be able to do professional quality work.

Jack

Originally Posted by Jack0458

I was watching a lumberjack contest on tv once and they were hammering nails into the end of a log. Everyone would use one tap to get the nail set then get fingers out of the way and hammer it in. One guy consistently would tap the nail into the wood then with ONE more strike he'd have the head of the nail flush with the wood. The other contestants were obviously amazed as was I. I take it this is not the method to peen razor pins. I ordered that hammer so in a few days I'll be able to do professional quality work.

Jack

Jack:

A Chasing Hammer does not a Professional Make.

Take your time and learn from your successes and your mistakes!

I did just that today. I've been trying to make a leather piece to hang from my belt to hold my keys and after 4 attempts I finally got it right. Well as right as it will ever be here at the Boars Nest.

Sanfte Rasur, mein Klingenbruder!

(Smooth Shaving My Brother In Blades)

Roy

I have scales rough cut to shape. I have a piece of the same material (kirinite) to use as the spacer at the rear of the handle. On a previous handle I glued the rear of the handle together. No pin. I assembled the pivot with scales, razor and washers with a screw pivot. Then I used epoxy to assemble the other end. I could slide the pieces back and forth to center the blade between the scales then clamp them until the glue set. Is there a reason pinning the rear end of the handle is preferable? Thanks.

Jack

Got new pin material and did much better this time. Thanks for the help and the video. I had to cut the end of the handle off. Looks terrible but this handle is just practice. I can shave with it though. The tension is good. It closes a little bit off center so I'm going to look at the video again. He talked a little about hitting the pin a certain way to get the blade centered. This is the razor with a 2.5" blade.


Also made another handle for my Dovo razor. I used kirinite, mother of pearl pattern. I'm pretty happy with this handle.


I have some red kirinite to replace the buggered up handle on the 2.5" blade razor.