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Thread: Wade and Butcher near wedge
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01-15-2015, 06:01 AM #11
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Thanked: 4828It looks like there is still most of the etch there. Yoou might be getting lucky on this one. After you do six hundred do it again with WD-40 or similar. Then work your way up to 2000.
It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!
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01-15-2015, 02:35 PM #12
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Thanked: 3215Yes, you did get lucky, I would have thought the rust much deeper.
If you want to remove all the pitting you will lose some etch, I would leave some pitting and keep the etch.
When you sand go from edge to spine and from heel to toe, it goes quicker and the scratches are not as deep.
You might think about a satin finish as opposed to a shiny finish, it will hide the pitting better.
Wolfpack34 has done some great satin finish razors recently that he finished with Croesus Cloth after 1k finish. You can buy it at Ace Hardware for about a dollar or two per sheet or in rolls. Buy the fine grit. You only need a small piece and it last a long time, so don’t throw it away when done.
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01-15-2015, 05:12 PM #13
I'm glad you brought up what sheen, I have been assuming a period finish would be satin but havent been able to find anything definitive regarding that. I was planning on taking it to a mirror finish then rubbing it back with pumice, the same way I would do with a finish on furniture or a cabinet, and if the pumice wasn't aggressive enough maybe a 1 or 3 micron diamond paste loaded on some t shirt. The scales are a little worm eaten as well but still plenty serviceable despite the way they look. Both are a little warped and have what I would describe as an integral wedge. Which brings me to my next question, what should I do for the wedge? During a quick search all I could seem to find were horn replacement kits and they came with ebony, though I wonder why not just use horn?
If any of this sounds off base let me know. I plan on steaming and pressing the scales in an attempt to flatten them back out, as well as flattening out the insides and adding a wedge (material undecided, but preferably period or otherwise understated as I believe it fits the look better on this particular piece). A question on washers for pins, the ones on it aren't flat, when I finally un pin the wedge side of the scales I'll try and get a good picture of them, though may be one of you can tell from the pics in my first post. I have done some searching on the internets but came up empty.
Btw, this is too much fun..., no really.
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01-15-2015, 05:30 PM #14
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Thanked: 3215Yea, pumice works, as does Diamonds you just want uniform or wet and dry.
Look up Wolfpack34’s recent razor post, it is some of the nicest satin finishing I have seen, he is using Crocus.
Read the Library on razor restoration a lot of sources are listed there, most of us use Mico Fastners for collars.
Horn can be repaired by sanding the scales on the inside save the dust and mix with clear epoxie, there are several threads on that as well.
Horn was traditional and can be purchased from a number of sources, just bought some off EBay that looks real nice.
Lead wedges were also traditional and add a bit to the balance.
You are soooo hooked....
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The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
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01-17-2015, 03:33 PM #15
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Thanked: 237I would like to disagree with the first part of this statement, the tumbler media is not going to remove metal, only polish. These things were made to polish brass casings which are much softer than hardened steel. Of the hundreds of thousands of brass casings I have reloaded, none have rounded edges. Of the dozen or so razors I've polished in the tumbler, none have rounded edges. The tumbler is a great tool to get a uniform final finish and to remove light rust and tarnish while leaving etchings in tact. You are correct as far as pitting, it does not do much for that.
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01-17-2015, 04:17 PM #16
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Thanked: 3215A lot depends on the condition of the blade, the number of blades and how long you leave in the tumbler.
If the blade is not that rusty and you only put in one blade and not leave it for too long, it will probably be ok, but banging and vibrating against the sides of the tumbler will round off the edges of the razor, if left for a length of time.
A razor blade, steel wool and WD40 is much quicker then, hand sanding or buffing is quicker and gives you total control over the finish, etch and the edges.
Or you toss it in and hope, there is no control over the outcome. I have done both ways… I hand sand and buff, haven’t use the tumbler for razors for years…