Thread: Making a lead wedge (Pic heavy)

Very nice tutorial. Anyone know the difference in oxidization properties for different lead alloys. Would a combination lead + tin (Pb + Sn) resist oxidization better?

I consider a lead wedge for my next restoration project, and picking an alloy that keeps its shiny polish would of course be preferable.

Best,

Sedell

I believe the combination you show makes it into pewter, which does oxidize somewhat. Look up lead free pewter on the web and see what you can find .

Nice write up Dooey,
lead is easiest to work with isn't it
And a lot easier than it looks hey mate
Job well done

Ah, Pewter. Thanks. Seems to be a bit of a jungle of alloys in the lead-tin-copper-silver.

Just picked the Lead-Tin combo, because this I know can be done over any flame at at home. Will keep my eyes open for a shiny one.

Best, Sedell

A nice walk through.

The only modification to your method that I would suggest is, for the final fitting, I like to temporarily pin (microfasteners are great for this) the wedge into the scales and do the final shaping of the wedge and scales at the same time. This ensures that everything will fit perfectly.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

A nice walk through.

The only modification to your method that I would suggest is, for the final fitting, I like to temporarily pin (microfasteners are great for this) the wedge into the scales and do the final shaping of the wedge and scales at the same time. This ensures that everything will fit perfectly.

same here , i find it cuts a lot of time off the shaping ..

An ultra thin coat of CA will seal it nicely.

Nice tute. You can actually remove a step by smacking it into a taper first up as per tarkus' instructions below:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...ml#post1279903

lead is easiest to work with isn't it
And a lot easier than it looks hey mate

my greatness it is. and it still end up with a wonderful shine.

An ultra thin coat of CA will seal it nicely.

i like this idea, although i have just left most of mine seeing as the blue magic leaves a fine layer of silcone. i figure that will be sufficient between razor uses.

The only modification to your method that I would suggest is, for the final fitting, I like to temporarily pin (microfasteners are great for this) the wedge into the scales and do the final shaping of the wedge and scales at the same time. This ensures that everything will fit perfectly.

i would have done this but my last pair had jumped off the workbench and ran off and hid in a dark corner somewhere. so much easier.

I am surprised that the fear mongers haven't commented yet about the lead. But if you are reasonable in working with it I see no problem.

i figured seeing as its a shaving forum, people here are going to be men with a little common sense. if you are really worried about it wear gloves, and a respirator (when sanding and filing), wash your hands regularly and before handling food, don't melt it inside and inhale the fumes.

Nice tute. You can actually remove a step by smacking it into a taper first up as per tarkus' instructions below:
Mappin Bros Lancet Edge

Nice! my big hammer has a few dints and stuff so it would look awful and the peening hammer is really too small for the big stuff. but is that just my equipment! Far better to remove that step if you can!


thanks all hope it helps.

Good stuff!