Thread: Need help on best route to go with removing a chip from 200 year old straight.

Yea, overthinking it a bit.

You have to remember with that blade shape it is not going to hone symmetrically across the bevel anyway, which is why the angle of the edge is not perfectly straight now.

I would remove as little steel as possible and alter the shape, by cutting into the tang. I don’t think you will really take too much off the tang to get it to look straight.

As you will see when you put a straight edge on the edge, it is not very straight now, especially at the tip.

It will have to be a judgment call once you start to remove the chip, and do what it takes to make it look straight, even though it may not be perfectly straight.

I would remove as little steel as possible.

How cool is that, to shave with something that old?

That's what I was sort of thinking. I'm not too concerned about the bevel. I would like to keep the transition of it into the tang as straight as possible but we'll see. On the other hand, I'd hate to ruin the patina on the tang. Whatever course this takes, it should be a great learning experience. I've only honed chips out of a couple blades and the worse was a Torrey that was a full hollow or half. To put the final nail on the coffin, the blade was terribly warped at the toe. Took a heck of a lot of learning to get that razor shaving. That razor taught me about honing chips and warps! I have a lot to thank that old razor for.

This will be by far the oldest razor I have. It just makes me all giddy imagining myself shaving with!

I say send the old boy off to someone who knows how to hone properly & remove only the chips as needed & keep the original shape as much as possible
Just my 2 cents hate to see a awesome old blade get bread knifed

I would also suggest not worrying about the tang until the chip is out and you see what you've got. Might not be as bad a relationship as it appears. The razor I posted a photo of in post 2 had a bad chip. Worse than the photo shows. A pro honer I knew looked at it and said he thought it wasn't worth fixing. That was when I was first starting out, so I put it away for a few years. When I felt equal to the task I got it out and honed it. Turned out to be a fine shaver, and the finished product looks fine.

I didn't want to start a new thread so I'll just bump this one. Does anyone have any tips about removing very light rust from gold wash? I have a Dorko that has gold wash on the face of the blade and a couple of very light spots of rust on it. I have Maas but I'm afraid of using it even on a Q-Tip. Thanks so much!

Originally Posted by StraightOverload

I didn't want to start a new thread so I'll just bump this one. Does anyone have any tips about removing very light rust from gold wash? I have a Dorko that has gold wash on the face of the blade and a couple of very light spots of rust on it. I have Maas but I'm afraid of using it even on a Q-Tip. Thanks so much!

Hard to advise without pics but if yo go to the little google cutom search window at top right of page & type in rust on goldwash. You'll see heaps of answers.

I knew I forgot something. Hard to see in the pictures. I couldn't find much in the old threads. There are hints at things but nothing conclusive. I probably didn't search deep enough though.