Thread: Rust inhibitors? (Long winded?)

+1 on not using WD-40. As it gets old any residual turns to a gunky, varnishy crud. Hasn't been on a gun of mine in 40 years, or anything else.

I like Ballistol, the smell grows on you, kind a like Hoppe’s. It does work well.

I only oil razors that go in storage, the rotation is kept dry and after use, allowed to dry open, overnight. Humidity in the bathroom is a problem that is easily solved by keeping the bath well ventilated.

I do use WD40 to clean most new acquisitions with fine steel wool and paper towels, then simple green to remove the WD40 and a lite coat of Ballistol if they get on the to-do list and are stored in the shop. The collection is stored in the house where the temperature is more moderate.

I've got one to try its a Rust blocker and penetrating lube.. PB Parts blaster smells like cherries

PB works great on rusted nuts and bolts, just let it set a bit.

Originally Posted by Razorrookie01

I've got one to try its a Rust blocker and penetrating lube.. PB Parts blaster smells like cherries

PB Blaster works great on rusted bolts to break free. It's mostly a penetrating oil. I would not use it long term on a razor. I've used PB for many years as a heavy equipment mechanic and it seems to me if you spray something down and leave that after it does it's job it kind of leaves a residue and long term can let the metal rust. or at least it has done that for me. Kind of like WD40 in that respect. Every one may have not had this experience but I have. I would suggest to find something else. I use the razor oil from SRD. I guess one could use a good mineral oil one you would use for cooking. If it's long term I also use a product called R.I.G. I find it at some gun shops. for long term it works great. when used on the blade no rust will form or at least it never has for me and I have stored razors for I know 15 years.

Thanks for the advice...use it at work myself never seen long term results though

Before I knew what it would do I used it on engine parts. I would clean in a parts bath and then coat well with the PB. I was lucky to find the parts before the rust dug in and I recleaned and this time greased with Vaseline or a good white grease. The R.I.G. has been use by the best gunsmiths for many years. The ones I know swear by it.

I use Castrol DWX32 for long-term (6 months or more) storage of anything made of steel, because... you know, tropical climate can be a disaster. It is smelly, nasty, and dries forming a waxy coating on everything. It must be well removed before you use the razor, knife, tool etc. again and can be a PITA to remove it from porous materials (bone, antler etc). Usually I remove it with food-grade acetone. Nothing better, but renwax is a nice choice if the razor is often used and just don't need to be removed.

I use a flit gun to apply it.

A lot of oils will get gummy with time, even the old standby mineral oil. Some of the the food type oils will get gummy and rancid. I suggested the Ren Wax because I would think that nice razors would be dried throughly and stored in a suitable environment, so you don't need to mummify them in something like Cosmoline. I have heard really good things about Ballistol,. The only reason that I did not recommend it personally is that I have never used it.

Thank you very much for the responses, most are excellent suggestions! Though, I think I'll stay away from motor oil :-).

Ballistol looks like a strong contender at this point. "Skin safe", per the bottle. And it's just a bit on the base side of the PH scale, which is excellent! Now, to find a dealer in town... (locator feature on their site puts the closest one at about 45min away.)

The hardening of coatings was a concern, as I've experienced this with general use of WD-40 on bike chains, door hinges, and keys (after coating it to lube the stubborn lock).