Thread: A ? or 2 on Evapo-Rust.

So far I don't see a great deal of difference. There has been a reduction of the black but not as much as to make it seem worthwhile. I wonder if you could get equal or better results from a brass brush and polishing paste.

Originally Posted by Hart

So far I don't see a great deal of difference. There has been a reduction of the black but not as much as to make it seem worthwhile. I wonder if you could get equal or better results from a brass brush and polishing paste.

That's because I didn't grab a pic after the wire brush. The pics were for comparison after abrasive wiping on one side. I worked it a bit more after the pics, but didn't have time for more.

I will continue to update this thread as I work on this project. How about Substance? What's the word for yours?

I find it works fine
I leave mine for overnight at least
The black film comes off with a very light 2000 or higher grit sanding not hard enough to take metal off
Like the film on the blade when you Vinegar etch

Oh yeh found a new way to straighten horn scales too
They get very soft and extremely flexible when soaked overnight
then dried them with a wedge of wood for the final shape in between them with a weight on them until dry
They came back great

Nice! I wish that worked for plastic scales. I got some warped ERN scales on a Tufpug blade that are warped enough that they nearly touch. Gonna have to use the boil method linked to in the how/what/where post in the workshop section.

For today's session, the wire brush (maybe aluminum?) saw a lot of action, followed by thorough use of the steel wool. Skipped the 2k paper today. And this time, the pics were after the work, rinse, & drying; before going back in the dip.

Originally Posted by Crawler

For today's session, the wire brush (maybe aluminum?) saw a lot of action, followed by thorough use of the steel wool. Skipped the 2k paper today. And this time, the pics were after the work, rinse, & drying; before going back in the dip.

Great results - that's the way I've done it using Evapo-Rust. Initial cleaning with toothpaste and a light sanding with 600 grit, then in for a soak. After doing this about 3 times, each time with a 24 hour soak, I end up with very nice results.

The other factor about using this stuff is that it is also a rust inhibitor, and it gets deeply into areas that otherwise would be missed without the full immersion, so it can prevent further rusting once these areas have been exposed from sanding. That was the thinking that was passed on to me from the person who introduced me to it...

I'm starting to see progress but I wonder if it's still more as a result of the brush than the chemical and if similar, faster results might be had with the brush and some polishing paste. Have to see if I have some pits that would qualify for a test.

Originally Posted by Hart

I'm starting to see progress but I wonder if it's still more as a result of the brush than the chemical and if similar, faster results might be had with the brush and some polishing paste. Have to see if I have some pits that would qualify for a test.

I'm not experienced with pastes... yet. Got some MAAS for a little later. My goal is to improve the condition of the blade with as little stress to the metal as possible. So letting chemicals, that don't make a lunch of it, do some of the work while I teach myself restoration is right up my alley.

Under the same thought process: the first hone I hope to get is something 12k or higher. For some reason, the thought of using crox makes me nervous. Won't matter when I get to the razor with a chip in the edge.

Thanks to my last few weeks in the "vacation relief" job before I get a fixed schedule, things got pretty crazy and I wasn't able to put attention to this like I wanted. So it was more like another 2 day dip, mess with it, rinse & dry & let sit out for a day. Then repeated that, and coated in SRD razor oil until I got around to it again.

I probably would have continued with the Evapo-Rust, but there was significant greying. Rinse & wipe the blade with tissue wasn't really removing the grey. Went after it with the 2k w&d paper, and that got a lot of it off.

After that, I decided to pick up a project toothbrush and do some light cleaning with toothpaste. Got a "floss-tip" brush with the theory that the thinner tips could work into any possible pitting. Used, I think, Crest pro white paste cause it's not what I use, and the wife got it by mistake.

Pics.

Those black spots appeared during the last round or two of Evapo-Rust work.


The wave pattern is from the toothbrush & paste, and me trying to keep away from the edge.


Good news: Evapo-Rust brought out the etch a bit . The bad: spots.


Evapo-Rust accentuating scratches & pitting on the spine.

It got some love from the 2k before the oral hygiene treatment. And just a bit more after. Not in the least satisfied; the grade for that oral assignment is C-.

I was getting vastly diminishing returns with the 2k paper. So I broke down & got some 1k in the same brand & type. I got some results that way. Started using a drop or two of SRD razor oil while I sanded; using my index finger in instead of a cork. (On a related note: need to add a decent bottle of wine to my "razor restores" shopping list!)

I probably spent about an hour working it with the 1k, avoiding the etch for the most part. I also left one side of the tail alone since the last dip, to give an idea of the greying.

Pics.

Note: the very grey tail.


"I wasn't ready for my close-up!"


A few of the spots got lighter, so... that's better?


"No wake zone!"


Ugh. I was trying the gentle route, but it looks worse in some respects than when I got it . Any thoughts or suggestions?