Thread: A ? or 2 on Evapo-Rust.

A cheap way to keep the evaporust swirling around in a container is to use a cheap aquarium bubbler without the filter on it - just a plain plastic tube ending.

Okay, so I was too busy to even shave, let alone mess with the razor soaking in the Evapo-Rust. Good thing it doesn't harm, well, anything as far as I can tell. So I finally got around to it after about 57hrs. In the pics, I only rubbed one side with steel wool & the 2k paper, to show before & after of rubbing the grey stuff off. Rinsed and dried it before the pics, also.


Not rubbed yet.

The big rust spot came off with the more aggressive wire brush.

Left side got steel wool, the right/toe end got 2k paper. See the color difference? Seems the scratches from the paper are more uniform, but the steel wool conforms to the shape better.

My de-rusting container. Not as easy access as Substance's, but there is no worries about spills.

Finished pulling the wool over the ERN's eyes, rinsed, dried, and left it open to air dry for most of the night. The scales, whatever they are made of, got rather soft. Stuck it back in, and will check again tomorrow... later today, after work.

I got some of this to try out. Anyway I put some in a glass jar and put a garbage blade in for about an hour and the solution only came up to the tang and after I took it out and rinsed it off I noticed that where the solution came up on the razor it created a pit line around the tang. Make sure you submerge the entire item in the solution. Not sure if the air at the surface reacting to cause the line or not.

So far I don't see a great deal of difference. There has been a reduction of the black but not as much as to make it seem worthwhile. I wonder if you could get equal or better results from a brass brush and polishing paste.

Originally Posted by Hart

So far I don't see a great deal of difference. There has been a reduction of the black but not as much as to make it seem worthwhile. I wonder if you could get equal or better results from a brass brush and polishing paste.

That's because I didn't grab a pic after the wire brush. The pics were for comparison after abrasive wiping on one side. I worked it a bit more after the pics, but didn't have time for more.

I will continue to update this thread as I work on this project. How about Substance? What's the word for yours?

I find it works fine
I leave mine for overnight at least
The black film comes off with a very light 2000 or higher grit sanding not hard enough to take metal off
Like the film on the blade when you Vinegar etch

Oh yeh found a new way to straighten horn scales too
They get very soft and extremely flexible when soaked overnight
then dried them with a wedge of wood for the final shape in between them with a weight on them until dry
They came back great

Nice! I wish that worked for plastic scales. I got some warped ERN scales on a Tufpug blade that are warped enough that they nearly touch. Gonna have to use the boil method linked to in the how/what/where post in the workshop section.

Originally Posted by criswilson10

A cheap way to keep the evaporust swirling around in a container is to use a cheap aquarium bubbler without the filter on it - just a plain plastic tube ending.

I used it in an ultrasonic cleaner & it worked out very well.

Made some progress. Not so much with the Evaporust, as I haven't messed with it since the update above. Been a lot of time spent hand sanding. Dropped all the way down to 220 grit of cheap harbor freight w&d paper, just about with the 3M 320 paper on most of the blade. Pretty much at a stopping point, until I reinforce the etch.

Pics...


Notice the residue still on the tang.


I'm a bit proud of how the backside turned out.

Mechanical abrasion removes corrosion and pitting. Chemical treatment stops the corrosion and removes the harmful bits, but leaves the pitting and harmless components behind, requiring abrasion to remove it.

If you are going to restore a steel *anything* NOW, go ahead and just use abrasion.... It's needed, no matter what. If you intend to restore something "later", a chemical arrest of the corrosion is a sound move, so bring out the Evapo-Rust or vinegar (acid), followed by a thorough rinse and oiling. Both chemical methods work just fine, it's your choice as to which one you use... just make sure you rinse away the acid if you go that route. Neutralizing it might not be a bad idea either, just before the final rinse (I'd use some kind of soap, it's a base that neutralizes acids). Vinegar is cheap and handy, naval jelly is less available and less cheap in most cases, but it does come in a more viscous mix.

Regards

Kaptain "You pays your moneys and you takes your choices" Zero