Thread: Dremel accessories?

Hi all,

I just got a "lot" of razors on e-Bay in which to practice my honing skills (so I don't destroy the edge of my new Dorko - thanks customartini!). Anyway, a few of them have some light rust, and all of 'em need shining up.

I'm off to get some MAAS polish today, but regarding the rust removal and polishing, is the "polishing kit" that you can get for a Dremel sufficient, or will I need "specialty" gear aside from this?

The link to the Dremel gear is:

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachme...=69625&I=66463

Thanks!

Peter

Flapwheels all the way. They'll give you a nice satin finish. Go for the 1.5" diameter, 0.5" thickness at widgetsupplies.com in 120/240/400 grits.

Hey Peter,

Depends how bad things are.

To remove minor stains and crud you just need those round buffing dremmel pads which would be much cheaper than buying a whole set of stuff. You get them in a pack of 10 or so.

If there is rust and more damage, as Ilija said "flap wheels all the way", although I've never actually used them I've heard they're great. Sanding by hand really sucks. I'll be using them for my next restoration.

Cheers,
David.

Originally Posted by drsch3

If there is rust and more damage, as Ilija said "flap wheels all the way", although I've never actually used them I've heard they're great. Sanding by hand really sucks. I'll be using them for my next restoration.

It depends. I like hand sanding the blade itself if it needs major work because

1) it gives me something to do when I am listening to the TV with my wife.
2) it gives me better control over what I am doing to the blade.
3) if the blade needs heavy duty work (severe pitting) you'll end up spending a lot of money on flap wheels.

A flap wheel can easily do 10 moderately messed up blades.

Those 3M 6" bristle wheels at good also.

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

A flap wheel can easily do 10 moderately messed up blades.

Thanks for the tip. I'll look into it.
I am currently hand sanding the pitting out of a 5/8 wedge.
The pitting was so deep that it is now a 1/4 hollow. Of course, I have to sand away as much on the other side, just to make the blade symmetrical again.

But actually, I kinda like having something to do when I listen to the TV so I don't mind... that much.

You're really going Japanese on us. When I had that much pitting on a blade that I really wanted to shave with, I just sent it off to Joe for a regrind and he did a superb job

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

You're really going Japanese on us. When I had that much pitting on a blade that I really wanted to shave with, I just sent it off to Joe for a regrind and he did a superb job

Going Japanese? I don't think I understand that expression.
Could you explain?

In a sense you are right. I am manually regrinding a wedge with sandpaper.
the hone wear on the tip was about 4 mm wide on both the spine and the edge. The pitting was so deep that it would have been a hole in a full hollow blade.

Why am I doing it? Not because I want to shave so much with it or because it is worth much.
Let's just say that the blade needed loving care and help, like a stray dog. Sending it off for a regrind just wouldn't feel right.
I guess Nelson had an epiphany when he named me Lord Salvager.

Rest assured, I have taken pictures before I did anything on the blade and I will post them with a full restoration description once it is done.

By "going Japanese" I was referring to that katana-making vid. Completely traditional, all done by hand and zero use of modern abrasives and/or power tools.