Thread: Hinge pin mechanics

Originally Posted by MikeT

What is the middle scales spacer called as we see in some straight razors?

The old Sheffield term for it was a 'plug' but now it is almost universally called a spacer or simply the third pinning.

Some razors have two plugs/spacers - one in the middle and one replacing the wedge. An odd look in my opinion, but used a lot back in the day.

Regards,
Neil

This has been a very informative thread. After reading it a couple of times I visited my shave den. I looked at older razors and new razors. After visually seeing how the scales and wedge function together it made perfect sense. My older razors have wedges and most of my new razors, PRC, Wacker, Ralf Aust, Revisor, and new TI' have spacers.

Since the fun is over. . . Remember to do final pivot pinning with the blade at full open, in line with the scales.
Trust me!
~Richard

Originally Posted by Geezer

Since the fun is over. . . Remember to do final pivot pinning with the blade at full open, in line with the scales.
Trust me!
~Richard

You know I never thought of that but it would seem to make sense.

Bob

Originally Posted by Orville

Maybe it is just me, but I cannot help but think that a wedge, with the inherent flexing of the scales it causes, puts more stress on the scales than a simple spacer which does not cause the scales to flex at all. I can see how a spacer would allow for the scales to loosen over time (due to wear from opening and closing, etc.)

Am I missing something?

Yes ,, the razor makers of old didn't do a wedge without it being the right way , unless you feel craftsmen of that age were just hacks,, we don't need to reinvent the wheel,or try to figure it out, the spacer has come about by knife makers trying to build razors. Tc

Also I'll say this newer customs tend to have more knife design than razor, hence the damn thick assed scales that are not user friendly or attractive, on the customs that are following the tapered tang it seems their spending the time to make a quality razor

There is an elegance about well designed and executed mechanics, like the blade, wedge scale interaction. Not to de-rail us, but you can see the same principle at work in older revolvers, when you remove the grip, look at the leaf spring action as you work the action. One has to wonder at the vision and brains it took to conceive the design, and the talent to execute it.

I find thread to be rather strange,Scale dynamics???,two scales,two pins,one blade.one wedge,all simple stuff.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

I find thread to be rather strange,Scale dynamics???,two scales,two pins,one blade.one wedge,all simple stuff.

That's only because you've never made your own blades and have only rescaled blades that are designed for the variable tension that scale flexing provides. Many people are confused how and why it works, hence this thread.

This thread has helped me tremendously!
Okay, when I first started out making new scales, I new how much of a gap was needed so that my blade rested at right depth when closed. That's it. That's all I knew. Then I just "eye-balled" it as far as the wedge taper went. It worked fine but was not precise, and could have been better.
I also messed around with spacers. While it will work, it will put more and uneven stress on the scales and compromise longevity. I didn't know about matching the tang taper.
Just finished one, (I'll put it up this weekend) and what I did was to take a measurement at the pivot of a length equal to that of my wedge and then shaved my wedge to duplicate the incline or taper while allowing the thick part of the wedge to be the right thickness for the gap.
Well anyway that's how I understand it... and it worked perfectly! I'm very excited about this
Thanks for the info... keep it coming!

This has been an informative, excellent thread.

Thanks guys ☺