The Butchered Blade

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Nice, Outback! I expect to see those thinned-out and beveled properly upon the 'morrow! (or soon!)
Get it on, my man!
Dragging a 20 footer must have been a pain!

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Oh hell no!!
You miss read that, it says 20", not 20'.
Those lying along the side of the track, that i took pics of were 20' or better, I couldn't even get one to budge, i tried!
I did find one that I could pick up one end and drag, and not to far
( rough terrain) from the truck.
But would need help.
I estimate around 200 Lb.

It be equivalent to dragging one of our Ohio whitetail.
Can you say 4x4[emoji1]

Hope to get a good whack at these scales tomorrow. [emoji6]

[QUOTE=engine46;1535170]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outback

Yep. I got them cut, but still need sanded and evened out.
Got a little side tracked tonight,
doing a little scavenger hunt on the railroad tracks.
3 mile hike, heres the results.Attachment 210197Attachment 210198Attachment 210199Attachment 210200Attachment 210201
But i did find one I could carry back. 20" long.
[ATTACH]210202[/A
TTACH]
Now to find someone to cut it into 4" pieces.
I know someone who might like a piece. [emoji6]

Here's where im at with the scales
And the type of wood is , purple hartAttachment 210203

Aaand, I've decided to replace my crappy boar brush knot, with a badger knot.
Don't know what size or anything, but for $11.00 (found at amish hardware store) who cares.
So I bought two.
Removed the boar knot, cleaned the handle, checked fit, will glue in tomorrow, need a shower and shave something fierce.

Mike, you could cut that into 3 sections & sell them.

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You know, I wished i had a gas powered chop saw.
I could cut up all that rail i took pics of. [emoji383] [emoji383] [emoji383]

I get to a lot of bargain/auntie-Q stores (read: Junk Shops) and find less than one foot chunks of rail fairly often. Pricing between 15 and 50 bucks. Many, at the high end, are made into anvil shaped objects already.
~Richard

Finally got to start in on that W&B. Had wanted to hand sand it to keep the surface perfectly smooth, no ripples, like a mirror. I got about 2 hours in and had barely made a dent. The pitting was a whole lot worse underneath.. So I decided to take it to the buffer with greaseless.. Ill take it down, go slow and steady, keep the surface level and even across, and continue with hand sanding 80 grit and on through progression.
Here it is. Ill continue tomorrow. :)

The problem with buffer and greaseless is that it exaggerates the voids into what you see. It grabs the edge of a pit and makes it wider. Time to quit, hand-sand with a fixture such as Outback has presented. Go a bit, call it done. This blade should be sent to someone with a belt-grinder to be reground, or slowed-down on current process. Ain't making any more.
Get a bevel and shave. JMO

How much meat do you have in that blade, from the spine to the edge.(thickness)
JMO but be careful how far you go. Some of those pitts look deeeep.

Myself, I would take as far as possible hand sanding.
Probably well over 40 hrs.
sanding in that one before buffing ,easily.
Thats how it was for my fredricks, took as far as possible and still has pitts.
Some ate dished out areas ,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outback

Oh hell no!!
You miss read that, it says 20", not 20'.
Those lying along the side of the track, that i took pics of were 20' or better, I couldn't even get one to budge, i tried!
I did find one that I could pick up one end and drag, and not to far
( rough terrain) from the truck.
But would need help.
I estimate around 200 Lb.

It be equivalent to dragging one of our Ohio whitetail.
Can you say 4x4[emoji1]

Hope to get a good whack at these scales tomorrow. [emoji6]

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I thought it said 20 inches too! Hell, a 20 footer, he could make some serious money from one like that if cut into 6" sections.
I am now debating whether to do a Clark & Hall or a W&B FBU I have which isn't the ordinary FBU. This one is a wedge with a beveled spine. It looks better than in the pics. The hone wear doesn't look as bad. It is a hair past 15/16 at the widest point

Attachment 210314

I've had some greaseless compounds for awhile now I haven't tried on my Harbor Freight buffer & several 6" & 4" wheels. I have 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400 & 600 grits yet to try.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeT

Finally got to start in on that W&B. Had wanted to hand sand it to keep the surface perfectly smooth, no ripples, like a mirror. I got about 2 hours in and had barely made a dent. The pitting was a whole lot worse underneath.. So I decided to take it to the buffer with greaseless.. Ill take it down, go slow and steady, keep the surface level and even across, and continue with hand sanding 80 grit and on through progression.
Here it is. Ill continue tomorrow. :)

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MikeT, that blade is pitted bad! I would do like Tom said.
As far as him misreading Mikes (Outback) post, I think he saw the pic of the longer piece of rail.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

The problem with buffer and greaseless is that it exaggerates the voids into what you see. It grabs the edge of a pit and makes it wider. Time to quit, hand-sand with a fixture such as Outback has presented. Go a bit, call it done. This blade should be sent to someone with a belt-grinder to be reground, or slowed-down on current process. Ain't making any more.
Get a bevel and shave. JMO

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Yep ,exactly what i was getting at, till i hit the reply button accidentally.

Thanks Tom

I've thinned one scale most of the way tonite, and thats all. [emoji25] Attachment 210317

Might get more done tomorrow, but I've got to get my boat and gear ready for a tournament Saturday nite.

We like 'em thin, OutbacK ! Thin! ;)