Thread: What rake for my 4" wheels?

Looks like the same one, about 12 inches long and about 3 wide.

Here’s the link.

They re-made the website a couple years ago and it is very difficult to navigate. It has a large header that eats up a third of the page.

There are small page numbers at the bottom of the page that opens the rest of the site, but it is easy to miss and the links open very slowly, takes about 30 seconds or so.

It is a frustrating website, but is a good company with great products.

I have used that take for about 50 years. I also have used a wire brushes and a wood rasp. All work and I try to keep the buff surface flat to assure that I have control of the edges. I can better control my placement that way.
~Richard

CasWell plating same company you purchased the wheels from.

A well made new wheel like Caswell sells does not need to be raked unless you want to be covered in a mess of cotton fibers IMHO. You should be able to evenly load a new wheel with greaseless if you are experienced. If not then Glu-Tite is your friend will help load a wheel but don't hog it on just a thin layer that you can see through is enough. Once the greaseless has adhered to the wheel it should be in an even coat. I tried to take a couple of pictures as a reference. The first in an even coated wheel that I've used and loaded a few times. The second kind of looks like a broken lava field and it's time to rake this wheel and apply fresh greaseless. Stay towards the bottom of the wheel and hang onto it tight as you introduce it to the periphery of the wheel. It may try and rip it from your hands. Respirator and eye protection are mandatory in my book.
Once I think my wheels are not cutting well I reload them. I don't wait until all the compound is worn off the wheel. You'll be able to see when it is not cutting efficiently. It will look more like it is polishing the metal than cutting. Kind of like sandpaper. The fresh new stuff cuts the best. The grit on the wheels wears like sand paper. Someone once said use sandpaper like someone else is paying for it.
Do take the time to mark your wheels with rotation direction and grit size. I know some think the direction makes no difference but the greaseless lays down in one direction and if you reverse it the first time you touch steel to the wheel you'll have compound breaking off the wheel and flying everywhere. It will also cut more even with no deep cuts.
I could drone on but I'll leave it here.

Do take the time to mark your wheels with rotation direction and grit size. I know some think the direction makes no difference but the greaseless lays down in one direction and if you reverse it the first time you touch steel to the wheel you'll have compound breaking off the wheel and flying everywhere. It will also cut more even with no deep cuts.
I could drone on but I'll leave it here.

Great post. Reason why is quite sensible. Thank- you for tip. I will use that one.
[

Originally Posted by karlej

A well made new wheel like Caswell sells does not need to be raked unless you want to be covered in a mess of cotton fibers IMHO. You should be able to evenly load a new wheel with greaseless if you are experienced. If not then Glu-Tite is your friend will help load a wheel but don't hog it on just a thin layer that you can see through is enough. Once the greaseless had adhered to the wheel it should be in an even coat. I tried to take a couple of pictures as a reference. The first in an even coated wheel that I've used and loaded a few times. The second kind of looks like a broken lava field and it's time to rake this wheel and apply fresh greaseless. Stay towards the bottom of the wheel and hang onto it tight as you introduce it to the periphery of the wheel. It may try and rip it from your hands. Respirator and eye protection are mandatory in my book.
Once I think my wheels are not cutting well I reload them. I don't wait until all the compound is worn off the wheel. You'll be able to see when it is not cutting efficiently. It will look more like it is polishing the metal than cutting. Kind of like sandpaper. The fresh new stuff cuts the best. The grit on the wheels wears like sand paper. Someone once said use sandpaper like someone else is paying for it.
Do take the time to mark your wheels with rotation direction and grit size. I know some think the direction makes no difference but the greaseless lays down in one direction and if you reverse it the first time you touch steel to the wheel you'll have compound breaking off the wheel and flying everywhere. It will also cut more even with no deep cuts.
I could drone on but I'll leave it here.

Thanks for the tips Karlej.
How do you use the Glu-Tite since it is in a tube? Do you tear the top of the tube and unravel it some to apply it?

Well I scored around the tube about a 1/2 inch down with a hacksaw so it came off nice and even. But if you are a Marine I suppose you can just tear the top off. Just kidding. Mine came with a red plastic cap to seal it up after it's opened. I use it so infrequently I've never had to cut more off the tube.

I have a little cross cut hand saw I got at Dollar tree that I use for a rake. It's been used some & not sharp now. I just hold it fairly tight cross ways to the buff & it works fine.

Slawman