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06-15-2016, 12:03 PM #11
If you do unpin and use Evapo-Rust, be sure the entire blade is in the liquid.
You do not want a liquid - air contact. The chemical will etch a line at the junction. If left long enough, I suppose it would cut through the blade.If you don't care where you are, you are not lost.
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to rolodave For This Useful Post:
bluesman7 (06-15-2016), Geezer (06-15-2016), HARRYWALLY (06-15-2016), Whizbang (06-16-2016)
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06-15-2016, 11:55 PM #12Senior Member
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I've experimented with clr with trash blades absolutely caked in rust. It does get the active rust off but you then have to contend with the darkened exterior steel so you still need to do hand work to undo what the clr does.
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The Following User Says Thank You to kcb5150 For This Useful Post:
Whizbang (06-16-2016)
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06-16-2016, 12:05 AM #13Senior Member
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That blade just needs a sheet of 1000 and maybe a sheet of 1500 sent on it followed by polish
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06-16-2016, 03:08 PM #14Senior Member
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What that blade needs in conjunction with the above response is GOFEG. It works perfectly every time. It has never failed me and many others.
Originally Posted by kcb5150
Just in case you don't know what GOFEG stands for it's Good Old Fashion Elbow Gease. It's cheap, easy and in endless supply. There is no Shortcut to a quality restoration.rolodave likes this."The production of to many usefull things results in too many useless people."
Karl Marx
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