Thread: Is CLR safe on SRs and their scales?

I have a "new" antique store find...a Genco Gold Seal and there is some rust on the tang. Is CLR safe? It is probably safe on the metal...but is it safe on the scales? I am not at the stage where I feel comfortable removing/replacing scales.

Might want to think about a product named Evapo-Rust. My experience is that it's safe on metal and scales.


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Love the Genco’s shaved with one this morning.

Be careful with chemicals and old clear celluloid scales, you can kick off Cell rot.

Some steel wool, and 1k paper should get it gleaming but, you probably want to un-pin that one, to clean up the pin, translucent scales show everything.

You have to start some time, go slow file a flat on the pin, center punch a dimple and use a small center drill/counter sink in a drill press, to start your hole, then a 1/16 drill in a pin vise.

Did I say, go slow?

I've soaked DE razors in CLR for a few days with no ill effect. Not sure I would put an entire straight razor in it though. Maybe just the blade but at that point there's better methods.

From what I am seeing I would try a good metal polish first as the rust doesn't look that bad on the one side of the blade. I don't resort to sanding until I give polish like Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish a try, if that does not get satisfactory results then I consider more abrasive.

Unpinning the scales does make it possible to do a better job of cleaning but be very careful as old celluloid scales can be very brittle and are easy to break.......trust me, I've broken more than one set that I wanted to keep. Unpinning and rescaling isn't that hard you just have to be very careful.

I won't comment on the CLR as I have not tried it.

When I get a razor to restore the first step is to apply CLR with a toothbrush then scrub with a brass brush and rinse thoroughly. Saves a lot of time. I would not soak the razor for any extended period.

Would Flitz Polish be safe to use on this kind of scales? What is this "scale or cell rot" you speak of?

I am guessing this razor was made in the 1930s...so would the scales be celluloid or plastic?

When I start a restore project I often begin with an initial spray of WD40 to everything as cleaning /lubricating step.

Never seen a bad reaction to WD-40 not to be used on any wood however

I would NOT recommend any harsh Chemicals on the steel or the scales..

But hey they are your razors do as you please

MAAS is a pretty safe polish for Scales and Steel

Blue Magic also has been good

Flitz and SimiChrome are a bit stronger and I would be a little hesitant for scales..

anyway hope that helps


Oh sorry missed the question,,, Yes those are Celluloid if in doubt rub them vigorously with a cotton rag and sniff, Celluloid will give a slight Camphor scent, Plastic will smell like warm Plastic

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Never seen a bad reaction to WD-40 not to be used on any wood however

I would NOT recommend any harsh Chemicals on the steel or the scales..

But hey they are your razors do as you please

MAAS is a pretty safe polish for Scales and Steel

Blue Magic also has been good

Flitz and SimiChrome are a bit stronger and I would be a little hesitant for scales..

anyway hope that helps


Oh sorry missed the question,,, Yes those are Celluloid if in doubt rub them vigorously with a cotton rag and sniff, Celluloid will give a slight Camphor scent, Plastic will smell like warm Plastic

Thanks...this is very helpful as usual. I will avoid the CLR. I think I will just use a mild warm soapy water and a ultra soft toothbrush or Q-tips to clean the scales. Buff with a dry cloth. As for the blade I will start with Mothers Mag and Aluminium polish and see how far that takes me. I can see the rust on the tang will require a bit more attention. For now I just want to clean it up enough to hone. Likely this fall/winter I will learn to remove the pins and do some additional restoration work on the scales/blades.

Cell rot is a breakdown of the chemical makeup of Celluloid. One of the first symptoms is the shrinking of the scales, then a discoloration and then full off gassing that will completely eat the steel, of a razor, if left unattended.

It is not completely understood why it occurs, but heat and possible wild temperature changes, (storing in attics or display cases), direct sunlight, and moisture will cause it to start the breakdown. It is a chemical breakdown so, adding strong chemicals, could very well set the process in motion.

Once it starts, there is no known cure, except to remove the scales from the razor to save the blade and decorative bolsters. And toss the scales in the trash.

One razor with cell rot can infect or attack a case full of razors as in a store display.

Clear scales and the Cracked Ice and Faux Ivory and Faux tortoise scales from the early to mid-1900’s are notorious. Double Duck razors are also notorious for Cell Rot, probably why they are so collectable, so few survive.

There are several good post on Cell Rot, good indicators are, razors that do not close centered, shrinking scales, one longer that the other, (not centering), scales smaller than the wedge, a lite yellow/ red rust, pattern rusting, on the blade that matches the scales, (Faux Tortoise) rusting at the edge, (rot attack the thinnest metal first), a strong ammonia/camphor smell, rusting on the blade, that matches where the scales would be sitting between the scales.

Learn to identify it and do not buy razors that you suspect of it, it is not worth it. Even if you identify it early and remove all the rust and scales, it can still weaken the metal and you will have issues with a razor not able to maintain an edge, some will just crumble.

Maas works well with scales, as does Novus, a polish formulated specifically for plastics. Sanding with 1 and 2k Wet & Dry, then polish with a good polish.