Thread: Is CLR safe on SRs and their scales?

Never seen a bad reaction to WD-40 not to be used on any wood however

I would NOT recommend any harsh Chemicals on the steel or the scales..

But hey they are your razors do as you please

MAAS is a pretty safe polish for Scales and Steel

Blue Magic also has been good

Flitz and SimiChrome are a bit stronger and I would be a little hesitant for scales..

anyway hope that helps


Oh sorry missed the question,,, Yes those are Celluloid if in doubt rub them vigorously with a cotton rag and sniff, Celluloid will give a slight Camphor scent, Plastic will smell like warm Plastic

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Never seen a bad reaction to WD-40 not to be used on any wood however

I would NOT recommend any harsh Chemicals on the steel or the scales..

But hey they are your razors do as you please

MAAS is a pretty safe polish for Scales and Steel

Blue Magic also has been good

Flitz and SimiChrome are a bit stronger and I would be a little hesitant for scales..

anyway hope that helps


Oh sorry missed the question,,, Yes those are Celluloid if in doubt rub them vigorously with a cotton rag and sniff, Celluloid will give a slight Camphor scent, Plastic will smell like warm Plastic

Thanks...this is very helpful as usual. I will avoid the CLR. I think I will just use a mild warm soapy water and a ultra soft toothbrush or Q-tips to clean the scales. Buff with a dry cloth. As for the blade I will start with Mothers Mag and Aluminium polish and see how far that takes me. I can see the rust on the tang will require a bit more attention. For now I just want to clean it up enough to hone. Likely this fall/winter I will learn to remove the pins and do some additional restoration work on the scales/blades.

Cell rot is a breakdown of the chemical makeup of Celluloid. One of the first symptoms is the shrinking of the scales, then a discoloration and then full off gassing that will completely eat the steel, of a razor, if left unattended.

It is not completely understood why it occurs, but heat and possible wild temperature changes, (storing in attics or display cases), direct sunlight, and moisture will cause it to start the breakdown. It is a chemical breakdown so, adding strong chemicals, could very well set the process in motion.

Once it starts, there is no known cure, except to remove the scales from the razor to save the blade and decorative bolsters. And toss the scales in the trash.

One razor with cell rot can infect or attack a case full of razors as in a store display.

Clear scales and the Cracked Ice and Faux Ivory and Faux tortoise scales from the early to mid-1900’s are notorious. Double Duck razors are also notorious for Cell Rot, probably why they are so collectable, so few survive.

There are several good post on Cell Rot, good indicators are, razors that do not close centered, shrinking scales, one longer that the other, (not centering), scales smaller than the wedge, a lite yellow/ red rust, pattern rusting, on the blade that matches the scales, (Faux Tortoise) rusting at the edge, (rot attack the thinnest metal first), a strong ammonia/camphor smell, rusting on the blade, that matches where the scales would be sitting between the scales.

Learn to identify it and do not buy razors that you suspect of it, it is not worth it. Even if you identify it early and remove all the rust and scales, it can still weaken the metal and you will have issues with a razor not able to maintain an edge, some will just crumble.

Maas works well with scales, as does Novus, a polish formulated specifically for plastics. Sanding with 1 and 2k Wet & Dry, then polish with a good polish.

If you do unpin and use Evapo-Rust, be sure the entire blade is in the liquid.

You do not want a liquid - air contact. The chemical will etch a line at the junction. If left long enough, I suppose it would cut through the blade.

I've experimented with clr with trash blades absolutely caked in rust. It does get the active rust off but you then have to contend with the darkened exterior steel so you still need to do hand work to undo what the clr does.

That blade just needs a sheet of 1000 and maybe a sheet of 1500 sent on it followed by polish

Originally Posted by kcb5150

That blade just needs a sheet of 1000 and maybe a sheet of 1500 sent on it followed by polish

What that blade needs in conjunction with the above response is GOFEG. It works perfectly every time. It has never failed me and many others.

Just in case you don't know what GOFEG stands for it's Good Old Fashion Elbow Gease. It's cheap, easy and in endless supply. There is no Shortcut to a quality restoration.