Thread: Wedge geometry

Is there anything special about wedge geometry?
Razor closes and firm enough to hold in place and razor position in the is that the only goals?
I assume thinner would give a lighter feel.

Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

I do not think grind has anything to do with anything.
According to information posted in various threads, the grinding wheels were initially big and as they would wear out they would produce different degrees hollow ground razors.

I am sure some more familiar with the process will explain how these things were set up back in the day.

Actually refering to scale wedge but that's an interesting idea too.

Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Clayglen

Actually refering to scale wedge but that's an interesting idea too.

Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

Ok, I misunderstood the question them.
Wedge geometry has to be consistent with the taper of the tang, and from there you can adjust the back side width to set how deep the blade will sink in the scales.

Ah, I see. Thanks

Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

One rule of thumb is half the width of the tang. I don't follow that rule though.

Excellent topic.

"Wedge geometry has to be consistent with the taper of the tang"

So the angle of taper for both tang and wedge be the same?

Is there a typical angle that is usually used?

I've seen where the width of wedge be the same as where you want the blade to rest in the scales.

The rule of thumb actually says you start the operation at 1/2 the thickness of the tang and thin down from there

Looking at most vintage wedges, and even measuring them finds them from about .025" at the wedge end to about .075" at the wedge end, if you target that then taper upwards toward the tang end it should come together rather well, You simply adjust for function and taper of the tang and how the razor sits in the scales..

There is no exact formula because razor tang thickness and tang angels are different, there is a point in time where experience counts...


Or you can simply make it a spacer and gives excuses

Could one trace the tang and continue the lines out to the end of the scales or perhaps temp pin the pivot and the scales would show the angle?

Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

You are way over thinking it


The smartest thing you can do to help fit scales correctly is to have Mock Up Bolts

It only has to be close

Two things go wrong, the tang hits the scales with too little taper the ends of the scales pull away from the wedge with too much