Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17
Like Tree16Likes

Thread: Frameback Inquiry

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    The is an old post, by Glen, I think of making a spine for a frame back and attaching it to a razor, out of brass as I recall.

    Should come off easily, (a bamboo chopstick makes a good punch) or as said just soak it to stop the rust, and get as much rust off with a razor blade. It is surprising how much rust and crud you can get off with a single edge razorblade.

    A fiberglass pen would get in the crack nicely. Those fiberglass pens work well but are a pain, literally as the glass gets everywhere.

    I reserve their use as a last resort, wear nitrile gloves and lay clean paper towels over your bench and toss the gloves and towels in the trash carefully, when done, rinse the razor well in soapy water.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:

    Genericcreativename (12-27-2016)

  3. #12
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    15,142
    Thanked: 5236
    Blog Entries
    10

    Default

    I'd try a metal wirebrush on a dremel to get into the seams.
    Removing the spine is not a real option in most cases.
    rodb likes this.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:

    Genericcreativename (12-27-2016), RezDog (12-27-2016)

  5. #13
    Junior Member Genericcreativename's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    9
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    Thank you all for your advice. I see my use of grit garnered more attention than my actual question but I have learned something else along the way and that is always a positive note. I'll continue to experiment with the sandpaper and leave the frameback on for now as I've no assured confidence in my straight razor restoration abilities. Destroy and dismantle in order to live and learn, as I like to say.
    Just remember.
    Wherever you go,
    There you are.

  6. #14
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    15,142
    Thanked: 5236
    Blog Entries
    10

    Default

    Absolutely. We all destroyed some razors along the way. It's part of learning. Only those who don't try anything make no mistakes.
    ScottGoodman and 32t like this.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  7. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:

    Genericcreativename (12-27-2016), RezDog (12-27-2016)

  8. #15
    Senior Member karlej's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Standish, Maine
    Posts
    816
    Thanked: 952

    Default

    I posted this a couple of years ago on removing the back from a Wade & Butcher frameback. Hope it helps. http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...e-removal.html
    BobH likes this.

  9. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to karlej For This Useful Post:

    32t (12-27-2016), Genericcreativename (12-27-2016), RezDog (12-27-2016)

  10. #16
    Junior Member Genericcreativename's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    9
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    Excellent! I should have dug a little deeper. Thank you very much.
    Just remember.
    Wherever you go,
    There you are.

  11. #17
    Mental Support Squad Pithor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,026
    Thanked: 291

    Default

    As said, 80 grit is too much, but luckily this is by no means a rare razor; among the Swedish razors, this is one of the most common types. Some of the spines are detachable, some have been stuck on there by other means than just a very tight fit (which seems to have been the original method of attachment). A lot of these blades were blackened on the spine area before the spine was put into place, to prevent rust.

    If it's removable (by hand, with moderate pressure pushing the spine from heel to toe), I'd say take a peek and remove any rust found, otherwise I would just leave it alone or, as has been suggested above, clean up with steel wire.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •