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Thread: Frameback Inquiry
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12-26-2016, 06:39 PM #11
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Thanked: 3215The is an old post, by Glen, I think of making a spine for a frame back and attaching it to a razor, out of brass as I recall.
Should come off easily, (a bamboo chopstick makes a good punch) or as said just soak it to stop the rust, and get as much rust off with a razor blade. It is surprising how much rust and crud you can get off with a single edge razorblade.
A fiberglass pen would get in the crack nicely. Those fiberglass pens work well but are a pain, literally as the glass gets everywhere.
I reserve their use as a last resort, wear nitrile gloves and lay clean paper towels over your bench and toss the gloves and towels in the trash carefully, when done, rinse the razor well in soapy water.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
Genericcreativename (12-27-2016)
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12-26-2016, 10:01 PM #12
I'd try a metal wirebrush on a dremel to get into the seams.
Removing the spine is not a real option in most cases.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:
Genericcreativename (12-27-2016), RezDog (12-27-2016)
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12-27-2016, 12:55 AM #13
Thank you all for your advice. I see my use of grit garnered more attention than my actual question but I have learned something else along the way and that is always a positive note. I'll continue to experiment with the sandpaper and leave the frameback on for now as I've no assured confidence in my straight razor restoration abilities. Destroy and dismantle in order to live and learn, as I like to say.
Just remember.
Wherever you go,
There you are.
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12-27-2016, 09:50 AM #14
Absolutely. We all destroyed some razors along the way. It's part of learning. Only those who don't try anything make no mistakes.
Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:
Genericcreativename (12-27-2016), RezDog (12-27-2016)
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12-27-2016, 12:09 PM #15
I posted this a couple of years ago on removing the back from a Wade & Butcher frameback. Hope it helps. http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...e-removal.html
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to karlej For This Useful Post:
32t (12-27-2016), Genericcreativename (12-27-2016), RezDog (12-27-2016)
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12-27-2016, 04:13 PM #16
Excellent! I should have dug a little deeper. Thank you very much.
Just remember.
Wherever you go,
There you are.
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01-04-2017, 11:48 AM #17
As said, 80 grit is too much, but luckily this is by no means a rare razor; among the Swedish razors, this is one of the most common types. Some of the spines are detachable, some have been stuck on there by other means than just a very tight fit (which seems to have been the original method of attachment). A lot of these blades were blackened on the spine area before the spine was put into place, to prevent rust.
If it's removable (by hand, with moderate pressure pushing the spine from heel to toe), I'd say take a peek and remove any rust found, otherwise I would just leave it alone or, as has been suggested above, clean up with steel wire.