Thread: Frameback Inquiry

Hello,
I apologize in advance if this information is available in other parts of The Workshop or SRP forums. I've been using a straight razor for about three months now that was purchased off of SRP(my gratitude to you, Obie). After perusing the extensive database and libraries here I decided to try my hand at restoration for a hobby. I have a razor pictured here that was purchased in a lot(gratitude to you as well, rodb) that has, from what I was able to find, a frameback placed on the blade. I started using an 80 grit piece of wet/dry sandpaper to rid the blade of rust but the frameback seems to have rust where it meets the blade and goes underneath it as well. My question is, is there anyway to remove this frameback in order to properly sand away the rust? Thank you in advance for any and all help. I appreciate SRP and it's members to turning me onto the fascinating realm of straight razors.

My thoughts,
80 grit is too low a grit and will leave deep scratch marks.

I wouldn't have thought it was possible to remove the frame.

Figure out a way to get as close to the edge of the frame as possible

Good luck ..

outback (mike), uses a razor blade to clean rust off a blade before he gets into the sanding part, so I think that would get you as close as anything would, and throw that 80 grit away your not sanding an anvil Tc

I am interested to see any answers to your question.

I have one from a different company of similar design. How is it held in place? I can't see any obvious brazing. Is it just a friction fit that would be much easier to remove but then again it is rusty underneath and that would be hard to do. Yours has a bigger looking dent on the tang end that looks like it may have been pressed or stamped.

I decided at least for now not to worry about rust under the frame on mine. I would damage it more taking it off and it would just re rust under there again.

I have a razor like this. I just cleaned it up as much as I possibly could and capped the end with a small brass circle. It is an ugly baby! However, don't let the appearance fool you. After honing and stropping, it's one of my favorites. It delivers a very smooth shave indeed. My advice (and it's just my opinion - not anyone else) Leave it be. Focus on the edge. It will deliver a terrific edge if you hone it right.

Some are soldered in place. If not you may be able to carefully slide it off towards the toe.

I can't help but think that the advice about the grit you are using is sound. I have never had one that was loose enough to make me think it would be easy to remove or replace. I would be more worried about getting it back on than taking it off. I too have always just cleaned up to the back. However we are taking about all two times that I have restored faux frame backs.

400 wet and dry is as low as I go with razors, period.

Yup, 600 or 400 max, an overnight soak in Evaporust will stop the rust, the grey finish will polish out with 600.

Hold the blade in a wood, padded vice and tap the spine with a brass drift or wooden dowel, towards the toe. Evaporust or white vinegar soak may make it easier to remove.

Many had a mechanical device, nut or screw on the end to hold in place, some friction fit. You can fashion a brass cap to fit in the end when finished.

Evaporust is pretty good stuff and available at Harbor Freight and some Auto Parts stores. Save the used solution, it can be reused repeatedly.

I would try the Evaporust as well, I would be afraid that if I got the frame off I would never get it back on as tight as it was before. I've had quite a few framebacks and all but one or two NOS or close to it looked just like that and never effected the shave at all. The blade steel on Swedish framebacks are usually really nice