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  1. #11
    Senior Member Traveller's Avatar
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    Chris,It will still wear off if you go over it too vigorously with Maas ,or something similar.It is tougher than the original stuff but still not what you would call durable.Of course it is a good rust barrier.I put it on really thick,so I hope it will last pretty good.I cant guarantee it,so thats why I do it for free Best Regards Gary

  2. #12
    Plays with Fire C utz's Avatar
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    One more question....

    When you plate the blade, can you only plate the spine and tang, or do you have to plate the WHOLE blade?

    Thanks,
    C utz

  3. #13
    Senior Member Traveller's Avatar
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    You can plate any part you want.I usually just plate the spine and tangs on DD razors When reworking(although they only had the tangs plated originally)On all the razors I restore or rework I nickle plate the pivot holes and the tang at the area that will be under the scales.This is invisible(almost)and I do it as a rust/corrosion preventative......,I have been doing it for maybe 10-12 years, it seems to work very well,and just about eliminates corrosion in this troublesome area Best regards Gary

  4. #14
    Carbon-steel-aholic DwarvenChef's Avatar
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    So far my best shaver is the Gold Bug I got from Bill Ellis, it's by far the best feeling razor I have. When I get the Hinkels #8 shave ready I may have another runner for top line. The Hinkels #8 just feels good in the hand.

    Does the blade need to be polished in order to plate? I would think a less smooth surface would hold the plateing better. Never looked into plateing, I know this is a basic 101 question.

  5. #15
    Plays with Fire C utz's Avatar
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    We should take note of this thread, and the cost of Gold Bug razors on eBay....

    This is the sort of thing that drove up the cost of d.duck's!!

  6. #16
    Carbon-steel-aholic DwarvenChef's Avatar
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    MINE ... ALL MINE>>> I'M A HAPPY MIZER...
    D. Duck
    Yup this could get ugly

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