Thread: A method for pressing horn

Originally Posted by Oldnick

Zak, you'll notice I titled the thread"A method...", it's certainly not, "THE method". Every day I find a new problem, or learn something that confounds me. I had thought CNC work, and Owosso does that if you can provide the proper files. I lost all my CAD programs when I retired and I'm not sure of how small of a tool they can use. I have also thought about how to have an etched die made that then would allow for engraved enhancement, but I ain't no engraver. The die for that would best be one of their copper dies.

A cast mold would be very good, and I can do that out of brass, but that is way down the road. I have been having enough problems doing what I am currently doing. Yes, for engraved dies, you have to think and work in reverse, and then there is the problem of just how much you can deflect the horn into the die. Geezer has knowledge of cutting dies, but there would be a lot of trial and error in making a precision follow-die that would cleave the horn at the edges. Horn thickness would be a big variable. I have made dies that fall away from the design, but without a follow die, the deflection at that edge makes the horn want to delaminate at the edges of the stock.

One of my major problems in life is suffering from the delusion that I can pick up any skill I set my mind to, so I imagine I could learn to do die-engraving. This is probably quite far from true, but I'm willing to try.

My other problem is that I will cheerfully spend weeks making a faster method to do a thing that takes hours, so the CNC machined die is awfully appealing (and of course I'm sure I could figure out how to do that without having ever tried to do that).

You begin to see how I get in trouble.

I've got to think that one of the keys to getting the plates to cut as well as form is having the whole jig slathered in some kind of lube. I recall Neil saying they used tallow. There was that bit about the liquidized keratin dripping out of the molds.

But I'm also excited by the idea of boiling transparent horn in neatsfoot oil to improve its clarity -- that way lies some very good faux tortoise. I have everything I need for that experiment except blanks with good clarity. They're all streaky.

Originally Posted by Oldnick

I made some 1/32" thick backup plates for a pressing last night. The results were good, and interesting. I'll post some photos later today. The confounding thing was that I had taped the follow plates in position. The tape left an impression on the horn THROUGH the metal plates, and the plates have no impression of the tape???!!! I'm having a little trouble getting my head around that. But then there's this impression:
That's a dog hair!
There is MUCH to explore even using this jackleg method. I'm not too sure I'll be boiling the press though.. Anyway, I'm glad you are enjoying my explorations....jump in!

Whoa! That is a neat trick with the tape!

Xnay on the "boiling" horn. I heated a slab yesterday, and took it to a little higher heat and longer period. When the micro bubbling stopped, I took it out to find that it had shrunk badly. Flat surface on top had a sunken lagoon in the middle, other flat had developed waviness, the edges were concave, and the whole piece wanted to revert to its curved memory. Not good. Seems that only slight treatment at lower temperatures and times has any value whatsoever.

Thank you for posting this! It will inspire others to explore this lost art.
Keep us updated please.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Thank you for posting this! It will inspire others to explore this lost art.
Keep us updated please.

Thanks, I certainly hope so. Compared to the craftsmen that reside here, I'm just a duffer.

Originally Posted by Oldnick

Xnay on the "boiling" horn. I heated a slab yesterday, and took it to a little higher heat and longer period. When the micro bubbling stopped, I took it out to find that it had shrunk badly. Flat surface on top had a sunken lagoon in the middle, other flat had developed waviness, the edges were concave, and the whole piece wanted to revert to its curved memory. Not good. Seems that only slight treatment at lower temperatures and times has any value whatsoever.

What did you boil it in? Water or neatsfoot?

Oops, left out the word oil. 100 percent neatsfoot.

Hmm. I wonder if that's related to temperature.

Also, I assume you found this? I had it bookmarked for when I got around to doing this.

Originally Posted by Voidmonster

Hmm. I wonder if that's related to temperature.

Also, I assume you found this? I had it bookmarked for when I got around to doing this.

I had read that, but I'm still not sure I understand the tallow and flowing keratin bit. If we could get the keratin to flow, that would be super. So far for me, it tries to defy pliability, much less fluidity.

Here is a link to some presses with internal heating elements:

heated+mold+vulcanizing

https:Arbe-Machine-Vulcanizer

Arbe-Machine-Vulcanizer-Jewelry-Casting
I recently found a similar but larger press as surplus at a university surplus sale for about $70, did not buy it as I don't have a shop anymore. They should be available in most areas new or used. Darn heavy beasties though so watch shipping costs!
YMMV.
~Richard

Originally Posted by Voidmonster

But I'm also excited by the idea of boiling transparent horn in neatsfoot oil to improve its clarity -- that way lies some very good faux tortoise. I have everything I need for that experiment except blanks with good clarity. They're all streaky.

Boil the horn in water to remove colour, will result some ugly, pale green colour. Dry it and soak in nitric acid to make it translucent and yellow/honey.
Just some old word I have remembered. Not my personal expertise.