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Thread: WIP: W.G. Wilton

  1. #11
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    Got a little further, looks way better in person than photos would suggest.
    240 grit
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    400 grit
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    600 grit
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    I also decided to try using emery buffing compound on the mdf wheel, my initial thoughts were that it wasn’t going to work but it seems to be very similar to using a buffing wheel, too much compound and it just gets all over the thing you’re trying to buff instead of cutting.
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    MikeT (02-02-2019)

  3. #12
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    Glad to help with sending you some compound. Just be careful not to ruin that blade. Ive never treid to go as far as you are. Hand sanding has to be done at some point. Good luck.
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    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

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  5. #13
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    Here’s a short video, pretty much all I was doing the entire time so isn’t much more than what the video shows.

    https://youtu.be/taK0FqBKruc

  6. #14
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    That was the whole idea, Jerry, do away with hand sanding. Definitely easier not blowing the lines with my setup but also, as you stated, not screwing up my temper. It’s pretty amazing, at least with this blade, the wheel radius fits all the facets on the blade, the hardest part is getting taper below the stamped part of the tang, it follows the same angle as the blade grind but I assume was accomplished way earlier in the initial grinding and not towards the end. It’s been very interesting going through this. I’m contemplating getting some lower grits and then trying to get the last little flat area right below the hone wear.

    Going through the grits takes no time at all, it’s just where you initially start, once you get everything straightened out and all the grind lines nice and consistent it’s all down hill. Actually really reminds me of setting a bevel, once you get it taken care of everything thing else is just polishing.
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  7. #15
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Oh. I have done the same thing. Only to have liked it better before I began.
    Grease-less compounds can do that.

    Pretty soon, you are grinding at Your razor and not Wilton's.
    Crotchety old me. Better you than me, me.

    I am lazy, so I like to put a nice shaving bevel and do the minimum anymore.
    Sticking with what it was helps with what it will be.

    Condition allowing.
    Last edited by sharptonn; 02-02-2019 at 03:46 AM.
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  8. #16
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    That was the thing and why I chose this blade to do it on, someone had done some custom work to it already with what looked like a 46 grit grinding wheel. Seemed like a good prospect to experiment.
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  10. #17
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Well get it on. I bought all those compounds years ago.
    Given a lot of it away. I use the 600 a lot. Go up to 400 at times.
    Some have the touch with it. I don't.
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  11. #18
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    I use it every now n then. Quite touchy stuff, but my best success came with doing circles with the dremmel, it minimizes the wavey return. But your still left with doing some sanding to true it up. So I'll keep hand sanding, I'm in no hurry, got time to do it right...just not twice.
    Mike

  12. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Something I've been working on for JP5. (Josh )

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    Actually sent for evaluation, and to take down. But after unpinning and cleaning, I couldn't help myself, and CAed the crack on the show side,and CAed the broken pieces on the other, then laminated two layers of 3/4 oz. fiberglass to each scale. Once cured all that was needed was to carefully remove the excess flash around the edges.

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    Mike

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    cudarunner (02-04-2019), sharptonn (02-02-2019), Thaeris (02-03-2019)

  14. #20
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Excellent save, Bruv.

    You da MAN!
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    outback (02-04-2019)

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