Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 31 to 37 of 37
Like Tree60Likes

Thread: Setting new bevel.

  1. #31
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Sheboygan, WI
    Posts
    15
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yondermountain91 View Post
    Little coarse IMHO, if an edge needs that much work I would just go back to a stone. In the rare event that I do use paste it's usually .25 diamond on felt. However there are people who strop on even finer pastes. I would focus on just plain leather stropping for the meantime. Stropping on abrasives will only exacerbate any faults in your technique, just my 2 cents.

    -Laramie-
    I'd still be using leather as a strop. This would more act as a final hone. The 10k stone that I have is suspect, frankly. I mean, I have nothing against getting another stone... honestly, I'll jump at any excuse to get another stone. This MAY be a problem of mine.
    jfk742 likes this.

  2. #32
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Pinole, ca
    Posts
    1,526
    Thanked: 339

    Default

    You’ve come to the wrong place, no one here has a hone acquisition disorder.... well, maybe Toroblanco.....
    Toroblanco and cwomg like this.

  3. #33
    Senior Member yondermountain91's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Somewhere in Mass.
    Posts
    320
    Thanked: 80

    Default

    I would still go finer. However this is just my opinion. Idc if you set your bevel on the curb, as long as you shave with a straight you’re alright with me. Take Outback up on his offer, you won’t regret it. It will make you rethink what you know about ‘sharp’.

    -Laramie-
    "If the brakes don't stop it, something will"

  4. #34
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    Diamonds are aggressive and results will vary depending on type, size and most importantly the substrate. If you have some 1um diamond, try it. Worst that could happen, you have to, do 10-15 more finish laps on the 10k to reset the edge if it is harsh.

    1um is about 16k, .50um is 20-30k grit, as is Chrome Oxide. Chrome Oxide will generally give a smoother finish than Diamonds. A stick of quality pure Chrome Oxide is $10-15 for a lifetime supply.

    What is the issue with the 10K?

  5. #35
    Senior Member blabbermouth tcrideshd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Oakland Tn
    Posts
    6,588
    Thanked: 1894

    Default

    new razor wont mean its truly shave ready either, the new razors come so, so, buy a used one from our Buy Sell Trade section from a member whos been here awhile with posts counts up there and whos got alot of people who will vouch for the edges. or buy new and send out
    Gasman likes this.
    “ I,m getting the impression that everyone thinks I have TIME to fix their bikes”

  6. #36
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    10,528
    Thanked: 2189

    Default

    As TC said...
    Buy new and send it out for honing. It will most likely need it. Its just the way it is.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

  7. #37
    Senior Member JellyJar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Salida, CA
    Posts
    600
    Thanked: 94

    Default

    To be clear, I am not a pro honer. I would describe my skills as adequate for my face.

    Your sharpening background sounds similar to mine, so I thought I'd share a bit of my journey. I got my first straight in the late 80's and got about a 1/2 dozen shaves off the factory edge. Edge got a bit harsh so, no problem, I'll just sharpen it up. Never did get the edge back. Fast forward a lot of years and I got back into straits. Found a local knife store that said they honed razors (it was only $4) had my original Dovo done as a benchmark and practiced on a couple of other razors I had picked up. The Dovo shaved kinda like I remembered, but it had been a while. Going off some spotty youtube videos and my previous knowledge, I was able to get shaves similar to the Dovo. Then I found SRP and started thinking the local honer might not have had the most skill (spine had clearly been on the stone and when I asked him if he had stropped it I got a hesitant reply of "yea, I did some stropping"). What I have learned so far is straights are way different to sharpen than knives. It's a whole different level of precision and care.

    I came across this thread a few weeks ago (https://sharprazorpalace.com/honing/...on-2012-a.html) and read through it. I warn you, it's a long one. There's a ton of tips and helpful info there if you can wade through it. That thread got me to really focus on the bevel set, make sure I'd removed all the previous grits scratches (a 10X magnifier is really helpful), and be more exacting and patient. I worked with two blades and was rewarded with my best shaves to date.

    I still feel like I can get better and will at some point send a blade to an SRP recommended honer, but that will be after I decide which blade grind/size/tip I want to have as my new benchmark. The folks at SRP really know their stuff and are super helpful.

    Good luck on your journey.

  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to JellyJar For This Useful Post:

    BobH (04-12-2019), TripleD (04-12-2019)

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •