Thread: Hinge Holes

Originally Posted by Gasman

That is a nice idea, Tom. Good one! And if you left the extra scale on top and taped it would help to guide the bit to keep it straight.

Hard not to do, Jerry. Lots of dusty scales in the back.



I take a matching rear scale and tape to a matching victim.
Front to back and vice-verssa. Touch the back of the victim through the pin-hole.
Untape and see if I like the position. If not, no harm done. Lots more patterns...

Then. I eyeball it and drill it from the back all willy-nilly!
I go slow and can feel when the tip of the bit is about to break through, Flip it and go at the top as I can see it.
Then, tape this one to it's other half and drill away. Works well for me.

Yeah, I've done it that way too, mainly with wood blanks I have made from snag out of the forest. If you hold your finger against where the bit will come out you can feel it about to break the surface. It's much easier.to be cavalier if they are expendable. Things that are not easily replaced or that I have more significant investment in I find I am more cautious with.

Guess what I did?









I kept losing the collars when they fell off, I must have gone through about six razors worth so I'll have to try to find the ones I lost.

I think the pin may have been too long, started with 1oz ball tap tap, forget that nonsense. 8oz claw hammer, whack wack then finish making it pretty with the 1oz.

The holes are not straight so I need a drill press I reckon, and it is nice and tight when open but goes loose and baggy when I close it again.

Practice makes perfect I know but OMG what a pita of a job. How do you guys have the patience for this stuff.

Too long and you take a chance in bending the pin. Peening takes a little time. Dont hurry it with a big hammer. Its only going to make things go bad.

Tight then loose usually means a bent pin. The pin is usually bent because it is too longWhat I have is a peening block with 1/16“ hole just deep enough for the pin to have a little to snip of when the top is peened. I put the pin in it then stack up everything then take a pair of side cutters and cut it off as close as it will get then peen that. Once it is peened down I flip it then clip it off as close as you can get it. I then peen that with the already peened side in a divot drilled in the block. This should give you just enough.

Also be patient. Pounding it will not only bend the pin but possibly crack the scales.

A couple of quick thoughts.

I agree is sounds like your starting pin was to long.

How sloppy was the pin in the hole in the tang?

Since this is your practice piece I would remove this pin and try again.

My sympathy with dropping the washers. The archery shop that I hang around has a carpet that hides dirt good but also small pieces dropped on it.

Steve, look through this thread. Some things I do to avoid collar loss as well as other tips.
Supposed to be a workshop sticky, but as in most things, I seem to be invisible.
Might help? https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...-halves-2.html

Give it to him, Tom. !!

Steve....when I started into restoration, Tom always rode me about my nut n bolt, pins.

So I started playing around with pinning piece's of paint sticks, and scraps, before doing razors. Still botch one every now n then, but that's the good part about it...just unpin and start over, before things go wrong.

Knowing the..before things go wrong, is learned thru the experience of pinning lots of razor's. Once I was confident in my pinning, then I moved to collarless peening. The final test was to peen ivory.



I use several of the tips, Tom has given you in those posts, as well as from others, here.

Just burn up a few meters of rod, you should have it down by then, along with a few tricks of your own.

No kiddin... I've gone thru over 5 meters of brass rod, and nearly as much silver/nickle.

Originally Posted by 32t

A couple of quick thoughts.

I agree is sounds like your starting pin was to long.

How sloppy was the pin in the hole in the tang?

Since this is your practice piece I would remove this pin and try again.

My sympathy with dropping the washers. The archery shop that I hang around has a carpet that hides dirt good but also small pieces dropped on it.

The hole in the tang was certainly more than 1/16 but not ridiculously big.

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

Tight then loose usually means a bent pin. The pin is usually bent because it is too longWhat I have is a peening block with 1/16“ hole just deep enough for the pin to have a little to snip of when the top is peened. I put the pin in it then stack up everything then take a pair of side cutters and cut it off as close as it will get then peen that. Once it is peened down I flip it then clip it off as close as you can get it. I then peen that with the already peened side in a divot drilled in the block. This should give you just enough.

Also be patient. Pounding it will not only bend the pin but possibly crack the scales.

Just so I am sure I understand Paul, cut the pin off just about as flush as I can with my flush cutters after the colar is on?

The tiny fraction that is impossible to cut flush is all I need to peen?