Thread: First attempt at replacing scales

Originally Posted by Leon

Thanks everybody. I'd like also to check that post on B&B. Can anyone post the URL?

Thank you

Hope this works http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=25084
I am assuming that this is ok to do, if not I applogize and just let me know....

Originally Posted by CatMan

I got 1/16" brass rod and matching tubing at ACE hardware (Just for the folks in the US). I'm sure they have hardware stores in Portugal as well.

We have tons of hardware and DIY stores here. The problem is choosing the proper tools.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Hope this works http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=25084
I am assuming that this is ok to do, if not I applogize and just let me know....

Thank you all

Leon, you may want to check out this site:
http://razortips.blogspot.com/
Lots of useful information from Bill Ellis. I also highly recommend his CD.

For removing old pins, I've found that the dremel with a cutoff wheel works best. Carefully bring the edge of the cutoff wheel down onto the end of the pin and score it in about three places, then just drag it across the whole of the pin until you have cut away enough metal so that it will pop out. You have to be a little careful not to nick the scales if you plan to save them, but I've found this method to be much easier to control than a grinding stone on the dremel. It's also much quicker.

Originally Posted by Kyle76

For removing old pins, I've found that the dremel with a cutoff wheel works best. Carefully bring the edge of the cutoff wheel down onto the end of the pin and score it in about three places, then just drag it across the whole of the pin until you have cut away enough metal so that it will pop out. You have to be a little careful not to nick the scales if you plan to save them, but I've found this method to be much easier to control than a grinding stone on the dremel. It's also much quicker.

I assume you mean a separating disk like this one:



I would further suggest this being the max diameter. The smaller the disk, the less risk to damage the scales.

Yep, that's it. And you're right, a smaller diameter is better, but once you get the hang of it you can do it with a new, full-size wheel without damage to the scales.

Originally Posted by CatMan

Leon,
I believe your first real problem will be to remove the metal scales. I don't see this happening with the tools you have. Could you maybe borrow a dremel like rotating tool from someone? After grinding off the peened side of the pin, push it through the pivot hole with a very small finishing nail or similar, while tapping the nail with a (small!) hammer.
Hope this helps a little!

Well, the stock scales are history. Yesterday I used a dremel to remove the pivot pin. I was not being carefull with the stock scales because I don't plan to reuse them, so, basically I drilled the pivot pin zone until it was worn out and eventually came off after I tried to "twist" the scales.
Actually it was pretty easy to remove it using only a dremel and nothing else, no clamps, no envil, nothing! You guys may think I'm crazy (kids, don't try this at home) but I was using the dremel with my right hand and the holding the razor with my left hand.

Today, I'm going to the second phase of the process. When I removed the razor, I put it together with my new pakkawood scales from CS and I'm sad with the shape of the scales. They are torn/twisted! It's the scales, not the razor. The razor is perfectly aligned. Have you ever received replacement scales that were twisted? I'll have to be extra careful when drilling the new holes so that the razor will be slightly bent inside the scales so that when closing the razor it doesn't touch one of the sides of the scales . Returning the razor back to CS is out of the question... it would take so long!...

Originally Posted by Leon

You guys may think I'm crazy (kids, don't try this at home) but I was using the dremel with my right hand and the holding the razor with my left hand.

When I removed the razor, I put it together with my new pakkawood scales from CS and I'm sad with the shape of the scales. They are torn/twisted! It's the scales, not the razor.

Nothing wrong with holding the razor in one hand and the dremel in another. I usually wrap a piece of masking tape over the edge of the blade when working on a razor but many times remove scales before I do so, holding the dremel and razor just as you did.

As for the scales, are you saying the wood itself is warped? I don't understand what you mean by "torn/twisted."

Originally Posted by Kyle76

As for the scales, are you saying the wood itself is warped? I don't understand what you mean by "torn/twisted."

Sorry for my bad English. I chose a point in the scales where I'll drill the pivot hole, right? Next, I picked the razor and with the tang leading, I put it between the scales where it will be fixed with the pin. I then tried to simulate I was closing the razor as if it had the pivot pin and everything assembled together. When the razor was reaching the other end it didn't entered completely centered in the "hole" of the scales but instead it touched the left side of the scales! The scales have a slight deviation. They aren't perfectly parallel.

Were the scales parallel when you drilled the hole? I usually put a spacer between them when drilling of approximately the same width as the blade. I also make sure I am holding the whole assembly at a right angle to the drill. Also, because the scales will pivot on the butt pin, you must make sure they are properly aligned when drilling. I use a drill press, which makes this much easier. Could the problem lie in the way the holes were drilled and not the scales themselves?