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Thread: Dremel

  1. #1
    JGS
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    Default Dremel

    I almost bought a Dremel today. Not quite an impulse, but I realized I needed to ask myself a few questions...Like: How much will I really use this tool?

    That is my question: How often do you use the Dremel in your restoration work? Is it indespensible; occasional use...or infrequent? What accessories are important to have?

    After buffing a few razors by hand, I could use some assistance.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Cheapskate Honer Wildtim's Avatar
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    Every time I get a razor that needs polishing I use my dremmel. Don't forgett all the other tasks it can do:

    Remove grout
    cut holes in drywall
    sharpen your chainsaw
    carve wood
    polish any small areas

  3. #3
    Senior Member jscott's Avatar
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    i would say that without a doubt the dremel is indispensible for restorations and scale making. it will reduce the time by 5x or more.

    attachments you need for sanding is very simple. you need one of those sanding attachments they sell. it has the metal shaft at the end is a rubber chunk. over that rubber chunk is a cylindrical sanding tube usually. take that tube off so its just the rubber. then i use that rubber with double sided tape and small pieces of sand paper cut to fit that perfectly. put the sandpaper on and off you go. you'll get a huge amount of use out of 1 sheet of sand paper.

    just becarefull as you're learning. at the lower grits the dremel really takes off metal fast, don't stay in one place too long or youll make a dent in it. go all the way up the sand paper trail and youll get a great restoration.

    for buffing youll need felt wheel attachments. i buy mine at www.widgetsupply.com can get a 36pack for like $15. should last ya a while

    ~J
    Last edited by jscott; 02-08-2008 at 03:55 AM.

  4. #4
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    The dremel is one of themost indispensible tools in restoration.
    I do a lot by hand (like sanding) but for polishing you really need (as in: it will make like much easier) a dremel, felt wheels and polishing compound.


    Quote Originally Posted by Wildtim
    sharpen your chainsaw
    You mean you don't hand hone each chain link by hand on a coticule


    I actually hand honed my father's felling axe until it passed the TNT.
    It zipped through 3" of pine and birch without any problem. It was a bit scary because I had to anticipate what the axe would do after passing through whatever it was I was going to chop.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  5. #5
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    97% of razors I've restored involved the use of a rotary tool.

  6. #6
    Cheapskate Honer Wildtim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno View Post
    The dremel is one of themost indispensible tools in restoration.
    I do a lot by hand (like sanding) but for polishing you really need (as in: it will make like much easier) a dremel, felt wheels and polishing compound.




    You mean you don't hand hone each chain link by hand on a coticule


    I actually hand honed my father's felling axe until it passed the TNT.
    It zipped through 3" of pine and birch without any problem. It was a bit scary because I had to anticipate what the axe would do after passing through whatever it was I was going to chop.

    My chainsaw get treatments from a hand file, the Dremmel would make it a little bit faster but it doesn't take that long anyway.

    I've never gone higher than about 220 grit on an axe sounds like it could be fun. right lefty?

    besides I still don't own a coticle, I'm to cheap!!

  7. #7
    Str8 Apprentice, aka newb kerryman71's Avatar
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    So far the blades I've restored I've done
    the sanding by hand. I do have some blades
    which I know I'll be using the Dremel to
    remove rust and staining, otherwise I'll be
    handsanding forever. I also use it with
    the flexshaft attachment to remove pins.
    The biggest advantage so far has been
    polishing. It makes a HUGE difference.

    In addition to the felt pads and sanding discs
    it wouldn't be a bad idea to get some Scotch
    Brite Radial Bristle Discs in a variety of grits.
    They seem like they'll be able to get into tight
    places, especially useful if you don't feel the
    need to remove the scales on a resto. I got those
    from Foredom. Really not sure of the website, but
    just do a search of radial bristle discs and you'll
    find them. Good luck.

    John

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    Senior Member Kenrup's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerryman71 View Post
    So far the blades I've restored I've done
    the sanding by hand. I do have some blades
    which I know I'll be using the Dremel to
    remove rust and staining, otherwise I'll be
    handsanding forever. I also use it with
    the flexshaft attachment to remove pins.
    The biggest advantage so far has been
    polishing. It makes a HUGE difference.

    In addition to the felt pads and sanding discs
    it wouldn't be a bad idea to get some Scotch
    Brite Radial Bristle Discs in a variety of grits.
    They seem like they'll be able to get into tight
    places, especially useful if you don't feel the
    need to remove the scales on a resto. I got those
    from Foredom. Really not sure of the website, but
    just do a search of radial bristle discs and you'll
    find them. Good luck.

    John
    Rio Grande has them.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Kenrup's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT View Post
    97% of razors I've restored involved the use of a rotary tool.
    +1. I've worn out rotary tools. After this Dremel dies I'm getting a jeweler's rotary setup.

  10. #10
    JGS
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    Is there a particular type of accessory (or tool) that you like for cleaning out the rust and discoloration on the "jinks" at the tang?

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