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Thread: Dremel
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02-08-2008, 04:14 AM #1
Dremel
I almost bought a Dremel today. Not quite an impulse, but I realized I needed to ask myself a few questions...Like: How much will I really use this tool?
That is my question: How often do you use the Dremel in your restoration work? Is it indespensible; occasional use...or infrequent? What accessories are important to have?
After buffing a few razors by hand, I could use some assistance.
Thanks!
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02-08-2008, 04:42 AM #2
Every time I get a razor that needs polishing I use my dremmel. Don't forgett all the other tasks it can do:
Remove grout
cut holes in drywall
sharpen your chainsaw
carve wood
polish any small areas
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02-08-2008, 04:50 AM #3
i would say that without a doubt the dremel is indispensible for restorations and scale making. it will reduce the time by 5x or more.
attachments you need for sanding is very simple. you need one of those sanding attachments they sell. it has the metal shaft at the end is a rubber chunk. over that rubber chunk is a cylindrical sanding tube usually. take that tube off so its just the rubber. then i use that rubber with double sided tape and small pieces of sand paper cut to fit that perfectly. put the sandpaper on and off you go. you'll get a huge amount of use out of 1 sheet of sand paper.
just becarefull as you're learning. at the lower grits the dremel really takes off metal fast, don't stay in one place too long or youll make a dent in it. go all the way up the sand paper trail and youll get a great restoration.
for buffing youll need felt wheel attachments. i buy mine at www.widgetsupply.com can get a 36pack for like $15. should last ya a while
~JLast edited by jscott; 02-08-2008 at 04:55 AM.
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02-08-2008, 11:56 AM #4
The dremel is one of themost indispensible tools in restoration.
I do a lot by hand (like sanding) but for polishing you really need (as in: it will make like much easier) a dremel, felt wheels and polishing compound.
Originally Posted by Wildtim
I actually hand honed my father's felling axe until it passed the TNT.
It zipped through 3" of pine and birch without any problem. It was a bit scary because I had to anticipate what the axe would do after passing through whatever it was I was going to chop.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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02-08-2008, 02:16 PM #5
97% of razors I've restored involved the use of a rotary tool.
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02-08-2008, 03:03 PM #6
My chainsaw get treatments from a hand file, the Dremmel would make it a little bit faster but it doesn't take that long anyway.
I've never gone higher than about 220 grit on an axe sounds like it could be fun. right lefty?
besides I still don't own a coticle, I'm to cheap!!
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02-08-2008, 05:56 PM #7
So far the blades I've restored I've done
the sanding by hand. I do have some blades
which I know I'll be using the Dremel to
remove rust and staining, otherwise I'll be
handsanding forever. I also use it with
the flexshaft attachment to remove pins.
The biggest advantage so far has been
polishing. It makes a HUGE difference.
In addition to the felt pads and sanding discs
it wouldn't be a bad idea to get some Scotch
Brite Radial Bristle Discs in a variety of grits.
They seem like they'll be able to get into tight
places, especially useful if you don't feel the
need to remove the scales on a resto. I got those
from Foredom. Really not sure of the website, but
just do a search of radial bristle discs and you'll
find them. Good luck.
John
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02-08-2008, 06:06 PM #8
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02-08-2008, 06:07 PM #9
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02-08-2008, 07:40 PM #10
Is there a particular type of accessory (or tool) that you like for cleaning out the rust and discoloration on the "jinks" at the tang?