Thread: Handsanding howto

Depends.

If I remove damage, then I sometimes use as much pressure as I think the razor can handle.
so a full wedge or quarter hollow is basically indestructable.
A full hollow is structurally weaker, so you'd use a lot less pressure.

As soon as I use higher grits (say 320 and upwards) I only use moderate pressure. I.e. enough to actually do something, but not pressing down to remove metal.
With higher grits you want an even finish, and that is easier with lighter pressure.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

WD-40 is great for sanding but if you prefer water or are allergic to petrochemicals a little bicarb soda in the water will prevent rust. It is used by Japanese sword polishers.

That's baking soda in the US, works perfectly.

Ahh, a new piece of information. I didn't know that.

Here is a set of contoured rubber sanding blocks that is very useful and reasonably priced:
Contour Sanding Pads - Woodcraft.com

There are various self adhesive sandpapers available that are perfect for these blocks:
NORTON 5" Blank PSA Disk Roll - Woodcraft.com

PORTER-CABLE Stikit Sandpaper System - Woodcraft.com

Originally Posted by Jimbo

Thanks for the useful info in these posts guys. I was wondering, is it complete overkill to continue on with the micro-mesh pads after the 2k paper? Is there anything to be gained by continuing up the progression to say an 8k micro-mesh pad? I've always just stopped at 1.2k as this is the highest grit I can get physically from my local shops. But there's a guy on Australian ebay selling micro-mesh pads from 2k up to 8k - worth it, or just a waste of time?

James.

Micro Mesh pads are amazing. Problem is the price but they do outlast ordinary papers.
The grit size is actually bigger than labelled ie 3200 is around 1200 US Grit but the scratch pattern is nothing like 1200. It is an even smooth pattern with no odd size scratches as with ordinary wetndri.
Don't have any razor pics but this is a macro shot of a tanto I finished with 12000 Micromesh = to 2micron. No buffing.

Nice pic. I was just going to ask if that was layered steel because of the texture of the steel. But then I noticed it was a tanto so I guess that answers my question.
Really nice looking steel.

Originally Posted by Bruno

Nice pic. I was just going to ask if that was layered steel because of the texture of the steel. But then I noticed it was a tanto so I guess that answers my question.
Really nice looking steel.

Thanx Bruno.
Alas, not a folded blade. The finish was a bit of a surprise for me as its actually 5160 monosteel by Kris Cutlery.
It was just a fluke on my part as I was trying to bring out the hamon which is notoriously hard to do with 5160. I think I gave it over 20 vinegar baths and as it showed up so did the alloy banding. I think there are a few steels that will do this if etched. 1095 comes to mind. It's a pleasant anomaly but might be dependent on how homogenous or not the steel is.

BTW Cool thread with great ideas.

Could you add a pic with it in hand and next to a razor? (for size) Just to get it clear befor i go make one. How thick is the leather, how did you stick it on? Would normal superglue work?

Thankyou very much for your helpful post.
+Buckler

Originally Posted by Buckler

Could you add a pic with it in hand and next to a razor? (for size) Just to get it clear befor i go make one. How thick is the leather, how did you stick it on? Would normal superglue work?

Thankyou very much for your helpful post.
+Buckler

Sounds like you're talking paddle strops Simon.
Think you might be in the wrong thread but I'll have a go at an answer. 4mm and Shoe repair glue.

Sorry Os, but im in the write place
He has leather on the end of his device. Just wondering how big the end is. But i think the glue idea might work. But would normal super glue work? I already have some of that, not sure if it would hold leather.
Thanks mate
Love to hear from you Bruno when you get a chance.
+Buckler