Thread: Handsanding howto

Originally Posted by Earthdawn

How can you tell when your really at the point where you should move up in grit ?

This has turned into an outstanding thread!

Sorry if this is redundant. The point where you move to the next grit is when all the lines from the last grit no longer show. Any step is a good example, say you've done 400 grit and are now working on 600 grit and have changed angle slightly to better see the 400 grit lines. Once all those are gone, the 600 grit is done and you can move along.

The biggest change in my finish work occurred when I listened to a more experienced maker, and I bought one of those visor thingees with magnifying lenses. If you think your stuff is good enough. Look at it again through a magnifier and prepare to be crushed. Then start again w/lenses. It really makes a difference.

Anyone remember picture puzzles? The same phenomena works here too. Leave the blade alone for overnight, for a day or so, then go back (with magnifier) and eyeball it again. Stuff just shows up that you swear you didn't leave behind. As with puzzles, you can't see stuff that is right in front of you after staring for a while.

That being said, you have to decide when to quit. If you use enough magnification, scratches will be there everytime you look, even on stuff that is mirror buffed. There is no such thing as perfect when enough magnification is available.

Originally Posted by hoglahoo

I move up when ALL the pits and rust that I want out are gone

Yes. Going up sooner than that only takes more time, because removing pitting at 80 grit is faster than removing pitting at 320 grit.
If you get rid of all the damage first, all the next grits are solely for getting rid of the scratch lines of the previous grit.

Have any of you guys ripped a blade by going to deep into the pitting? I wonder if this is something to worry about when sanding.

Al raz.

Yes. See here for pics:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...shed-last.html

The rot had made the blade so thing that the tip fell off
But it was only the toe, so I just made it shorter and turned it into a notch point.

I was in woodcrafters the other day looking for the sanding contour pads referenced in this thread. I took the blade that I need to work on and the salesman recommended a chemical product to remove the rust in the spine on my new project. I resisted the purchase until I could ask the experts about such chemical rust removers. Seems that I have read that it should not be used but if you're sanding away metal anyway what is the harm? Oh I'm new to this stuff.

Mark

Hi all, my first post and a complete newbie!

Have an old ebay job recntly acquired i want to restore before going at my face with it.

It's carbon steel with some rust spots but no pitting so going to make a hand block and have ordered all the recommended grits of wet n dry paper so will will making a start very soon, thought i'd try the WD40 too, sounds like a good idea.

Question i have is: how far do i need to go with this restoration before it is deemed usable to shave my face? should i just be aiming to get it as polished as i find pleasing then get it onto my 4000/8000 norton stone before stropping?

Thanks in advance! A GREAT THREAD!

Is it alright if I go from 400, to 600, to 1000, to 1500, to 2000 if I just spend a lot more time on each grit?

Originally Posted by just1nsturm

Is it alright if I go from 400, to 600, to 1000, to 1500, to 2000 if I just spend a lot more time on each grit?

Lower grits are time savers, nothing more. Although, I suppose it would take a lot more 1k grit paper to remove as much metal as a single sheet of 120 grit. So...money saver too then.

Originally Posted by just1nsturm

Is it alright if I go from 400, to 600, to 1000, to 1500, to 2000 if I just spend a lot more time on each grit?

That progression should be fine,just a little more time with each grit.

Question i have is: how far do i need to go with this restoration before it is deemed usable to shave my face? should i just be aiming to get it as polished as i find pleasing then get it onto my 4000/8000 norton stone before stropping?

That sounds right,put the finish you like on it,then hone.....However,we always recommend that new shavers start out with a blade professionally honed by an experienced honer.