Thread: 2000 grit sandpaper scratches

Question regarding hand-sanding and polishing. I have used a progression of 220-2000 grit sandpaper on a re-storation project and I can't get the blade shiney. The 2000 grit sandpaper leaves scratches on the surface that I can't get off. I am sure they are not scratches from a lower grit, I even tried using the 2000 grit sandpaper on a shiney Zeepk to make sure. The sandpaper did the same thing to the Zeepk, left it cloudy with some scratches. I've tried sanding wet, tried sanding softly, and used MAAS afterwards. Another poster said that the 2000 grit sandpaper should leave your blade mirror shiney- not even close. Any advice?

(FYI: Harbor Freight has a pack of red and white rouge for $3).

IIRC, The Topher - who has done some amazing mirror finishing - does a progression from 220 up through 3200 (1200+ in MicroMesh) and then proceeds to use three or four polishes. EnglishCustomPolishes.com is the site which he recommended to me.

HTH.

I go up to 3000 grit with my sanding and it doesn't
leave scratches. I also use white and green jeweler's
rouge for a final polish.

John

I don't know who told you that but in my experience 2000 grit sandpaper absolutely does not leave a mirror finish. You will have to go a lot higher with mesh pad or polish to get a mirror finish. If you think about it, a 4K Norton will leave scratches in the spine, so wouldn't it make sense that a lower grit of sandpaper would too?

Depends on the definition of "mirror finish". If you sand through 2000, it will give a mirror shine when next to an object (i.e. you can see the object in the razor's reflection) but it will not be crystal clear with no scratches. To get to the level of a bathroom mirror type thing with no marks on the blade whatsoever you need to do what Chris does with his fancy rouges for a few more hours. You can get a brilliantly shiny blade with 2000 and MAAS... at least I do, but it is still far from perfect. You definitely need buffing compounds and wheels to get to the finish you are talking about.

OK, so I guess I have to go to a higher grit or use compounds in order to get I higher shine. Please advise which would be the most effective and most cost effective. I can get Rouge cheap, like I said earlier Red and White 2-pack for $3. Or I can get micro-mesh, a 9-pach for $20, grits: 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3500, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12,000.

(source: http://www.woodcraft.com/search/sear...icro-mesh This is a great place that does online orders and has lots of locations.)

So what do you suggest? Cheaper compounds (I already have MAAS, so I need something that's going to cut away the scratches-suggestions?) or get the micro-mesh, or both?

I got the Red and White rouges w/buffing wheels...they work pretty well at buffing but can't get the scratch marcks from 2000 grit sandpaper out...unless I am doing something wrong...comments?

Also, how the heck do you get the compounds to effectively stay on the wheel? I had a method, but it sucked.

When you're talking about "the wheel" I assume you mean a standard cloth wheel on a bench grinder (as opposed to a dremel felt wheel)?

I haven't had that problem on a standard bench buffer wheel. If anything I have to scrape off the excess.

To remove #2000 scratches I use automotive buffing compound. I keep one wheel loaded with 3M fastcut and it works great. Follow it with some machine glaze or rouge and it'll be so sparkly you'll think the martians have landed.

Originally Posted by johnny_angel

When you're talking about "the wheel" I assume you mean a standard cloth wheel on a bench grinder (as opposed to a dremel felt wheel)?

No, I think they're talking Dremel.

Compounds and a buffing wheel on a variable speed bench grinder set at the lowest rpm (1750) is what I use for mirror polish and getting fine scratches out. Works very well.

I mean a cloth wheel for a bench grinder (not the dremel wheel). Since I can't get the compounds to stay on the wheel, maybe it is the quality of the compounds. The compounds came in sticks that are hard and I have to shave off what I need, it comes off in flakes that I chop into a powder, but the powder won't dissolve in water...so how do I get the powder to stay on the wheel w/o flying off?